SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB350/400
CB400/4 ENGINE STRIP, ASSESSMENT AND REBUILD BY JULIE - NOW COMPLETE
Nurse Julie:
Whilst assembling the engine, any dowel that has oil going up it, especially the stud dowels, was thoroughly cleaned again with a small brush to make sure they hadn't picked up any contamination.
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
One thing I would mention here is that although it is easier re assembling the top end of the engine with the bottom end in the frame, I did find other bits, like frame, wiring, coils, cables etc getting in the way at times. I think if it were at all possible, I would have found the whole process much easier with the engine out of the frame. But then, you have to get the whole engine back in the frame. Not a problem if you have the bike stripped 100% as you can lay it on it’s side and do it.
I then fitted the cylinder head gasket and the cylinder head which I had re assembled previously. I used the new Dowty washers under the special 8mm nuts and the original copper covered steel washers under the 8mm cap nuts. The head was then torqued down in sequence and left for 24 hours before re torquing again in sequence the next day.
Head bolts
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
Whilst all this had been going on the cam chain had been held aloft on a piece of wire and fed through to the top.
I fitted the points plate with everything still attached from before but Trig pointed out that the covering and indeed the wire from the points had seen better days so I removed it and he un soldered the flags and soldered them back on to some new wire, I fitted a new white covering on it and put the bullets on and I must admit it looks a lot better. I refitted the points plate and found TDC 1.4 . I then fitted the cam sprocket on the camshaft and inserted in from the right of the engine and lined up the marks on the sprocket with the upper surface of the cylinder head. Now here’s a strange thing, nowhere in the Shop Manual or Haynes did it tell me which way up to have the camshaft, ie lobes facing up or down, I had to look at videos on line to in which position the lobes needed to be facing, bloody weird, unless I missed something obvious. Also, I seem to have got a ‘plate’ on the sprocket, where the two bolts go through, which does not show on any fiche or in any books, so I don’t know what that is all about either. The cam chain fitted over to sprocket with no problem at all and we then undid the cam chain adjuster, which had been in the locked position with no tension, and the little bit of slack came out of the cam chain and we locked the adjust again. We turned the engine manually again, to make sure everything was turning and going up and down as it was meant to be, just for my piece of mind really.
Points and wiring before
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
And after a quick refurb
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
You can just see the lines on the cam sprocket in line with the upper surface of the cylinder head and the strange metal plate that seems to not be shown in any books or on any fiche
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
Nurse Julie:
Elastic bands were fitted to hold the tappets and rockers up out of the way whilst fitting the rocker cover to the engine. One thing I had not noticed previously was that one of the tappets had a small chip and one had quite bad pitting, so I found some replacements in the workshop and fitted them. Trig then applied a little Graphogen to the rocker pads.
I fitted the cam shaft oil spray pipes with their nice new grommets and fitted the rocker cover and bolted it all down and removed the elastic bands.
I adjusted one of the tappets and Trig did the rest. He re checked them all again this morning. This is where I found it all very awkward with the engine in the frame as it really was awkward getting the feeler gauge in the tappets with everything else in the way.
Pitted tappet
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
Elastic bands holding tappets and rockers up out of the way
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
A dab of Graphogen on the rocker pads
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
And this is the stage that I am at now. Engine all bolted in now with crash bars fitted. Exhaust system back on. Drive chain on plus a few other bits fitted.
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
Johnwebley:
--- Quote from: Nurse Julie on January 13, 2018, 06:11:34 PM ---Elastic bands were fitted to hold the tappets and rockers up out of the way whilst fitting the rocker cover to the engine. One thing I had not noticed previously was that one of the tappets had a small chip and one had quite bad pitting, so I found some replacements in the workshop and fitted them. Trig then applied a little Graphogen to the rocker pads.
I fitted the cam shaft oil spray pipes with their nice new grommets and fitted the rocker cover and bolted it all down and removed the elastic bands.
I adjusted one of the tappets and Trig did the rest. He re checked them all again this morning. This is where I found it all very awkward with the engine in the frame as it really was awkward getting the feeler gauge in the tappets with everything else in the way.
Pitted tappet
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
--- End quote ---
Doing great. Not long to go
Just all the fiddly jobs looking forward to the start up
Sent from my SM-G361F using Tapatalk
K2-K6:
Very good clear pictures of the build Julie, getting close to firing it now.
The camshaft positioning (up or down lobes) is not important. With the crank set at T for cylinders 1 and 4, both of these are at tdc. Camshaft one way will give firing on one cylinder and exhaust on the other, then flip the cam 180 degrees without moving the crank, and the sequence just flips cylinders with it. As they are both sparked at the same point it makes no difference which way you build it.
Nigel.
Rob62:
Its all looking very 👍 roll on spring ;D
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version