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1969 CL450 US Barn Find Restoration
hairygit:
I don't think Piki would have a problem with the chrome finish, he makes the chain info stickers for chain guards with that chrome like finish.
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MrDavo:
I just had a test rub with some Duragilt, and although the paint is very faded on the offside badge, the chrome comes up better than I expected.
I will persevere, as the paint is the easy bit due to the 3D nature of the badge, James may have saved me some serious cash by suggesting I restore them.
MrDavo:
What’s the badge made of, is it chromed monkey metal, in which case you could polish the finish off, or polished alloy?
JamesH:
Dave - did you sort handlebars??... https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F112864587148
MrDavo:
I know James, I got an eBay saved search alert on those this morning, meanwhile my much more expensive new SL350 bars have landed at East Midlands airport, from Long Beach CA, via Kentucky. Typical.
I see the UK seller fell victim to the smaller gap between the clamps on the CL350 - he should have used a jelly baby! I'll try my new ones first when they show up, but if there are problems I have these UK ones bookmarked. The chrome isn't as good but they are the right ones and in the UK - where were they when I needed them? ::)
I was in the garage Sunday and last night, the engine is neary finished!
First I put the exhaust valve gear and cam in, then I set the tappet clearances on the backs of the cam lobes. I haven't checked now the head is on using the timing marks yet, it shouldn't have changed though. Left piston is at the TDC mark ready to time up the cams.
Next I put the head over the studs, but I didnt want it to go all the way so I could thread the wires on the camchain though the rollers. I have no doubt that Honda will use a can of pickled crabs or something, and not Heinz Big Soup.
Head on, chain up as far as the head, ready to thread the wire over the cam wheels and under the idler sprocket in the middle.
Once I had the chain in the right place and the cams on their marks I lockwired the chain ends together ready to fit the link. I used to use those lockwire pliers all the time when I did classic racing, they spin when you pull on a knob at the bottom. Paper stuffed everywhere in case tiny chain parts fall in, which would be a disaster. The inlet cam was slightly pressing on a valve, which made it tricky to keep on the marks, it all wanted to jump a tooth.
A moment of truth as I rivet the chain up, the tool's instructions in Chinese didn't help, I had to work it out for myself. There was just enough room, note the subtle but bang on cam timing marks on the right.
The staking looks Ok to me, I turned it over a couple of times and the marks were right and it stayed tight.
I took the paper out of the inlets, fitted the inlet stubs ( softened from rock hard in Ashley's magic brew) and camchain tensioner, put the plugs in, kickstarter on - behold, compression!
A bit more turning and oil came out of the filter housing, so the pump works.
On with the filter cover I bought the other day on eBay, very quick delivery, very tight fit. New Honda screws.
The kickstart return spring is a bit limp and rubbish, but it seemed to be on right, maybe I need to lubricate the new tight oil seal? I've found a few Honda Twins threads about this on the 450 and 350, so I'm not the only one, no definitive cure though.
I'd like to see if I can get oil at the top end, is there any reason why I can't use the CB750 battery direct to the starter?
Plugs in or out? (I don't want to burn the starter out!). I may strap the stand down to the bench if I do, I dont want the engine bouncing off the 911 bonnet really, that would take a lot of T-Cut to polish out. :)
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