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1969 CL450 US Barn Find Restoration

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AshimotoK0:
Progressing well Dave ... I went to see the one DS had one but by the time I got to his building with all of the used bikes in it, he had just sold it. Evidently he sold loads of bikes during the 50th CB750 anniversary event .

MrDavo:
Last night I polished the dirt off the rear mudguard, there was some surface rust at the front, behind the air cleaners, but the chrome was excellent where you can see it, no pits or scratches other than the patina (ie crash damage) at the tip, under where the number plate will go.

I haven't seen a used guard for sale on Ebay in as good condition, there's lots of rusty or dented mingers, and one thing that makes me glad I started with a complete bike is that when I couldn't find one of the special chrome mounting bolts, I persevered until I found it, as I knew it was definitely in the garage somewhere!



This is how I left things, all the indicator / rear light wires just plugged straight back in again, and tucked up under their clips on the mudguard. I also successfully polished the rear lamp lens with Autosol to remove fine scratches and a layer of crud. The pattern seat pan doesn't have a mount for the 'prop' to hold it open (although the rear 'hinge' just bolted straight on, and the front catch works fine), I need to sort that seat prop out, maybe using a cable tie and a couple of well placed holes. Edit - maybe plus lockwire, or maybe just lockwire may be wiser - I'm nervous about drilling though. I don't want to take the new seat apart, I'm sure the cover would never fit the same again, but then I don't want to set it on fire, either.

MrDavo:
One of these things is not like the other.........

I fitted the new air cleaners into their boxes and fitted them to the frame, then I polished the fork lowers, and fitted the tubes into the lower yokes, after installing a taper roller bearing headstock kit. That's when I found out the replacement top yoke doesn't fit, it is only a smidgeon (1 or 2 mm) different in its spacings, but the new one definitely doesn't fit, while the original (with the broken speedo bracket) goes straight on - they clearly changed the geometry just a touch, so you have to use yokes in matched pairs.



The difference isn't obvious from above, but its in the spacing between the recess for the handlebar clamp and the hole for the fork nut. It's more noticable when you turn it over:



My original (left) is noticeably smaller when they are next to one another, look at the webbing around the centre boss, and again the gap between the bar mount hole and the fork hole - in this case there is a small web on the larger version that is virtually non existent with the smaller one. I think (based on my 1018XXX frame number and late 1969 build) that my bike started life as a K2, but somehow got bastardised into a K1/2 mish mash - so I don't know for sure that I need a K2 yoke, but I think so. CMS have a couple of new ones, but I won't bite based on just a part number, because they can be a bit precious about taking stuff back, especially if you want to argue the toss about whose fault it was that you got the wrong part in the first place.

Listings don't make these things clear, currently DK has a smaller yoke (but sadly no instrument mounts) listed as '69 on', and one of the larger ones which purports to fit 68-69, but not mine. This is possibly K1 only. Later (k3 on) they went to a 'full size' hole for the upper fork leg, rather than a taper into a smaller hole which the top bolt goes through.

I would have posted this in 'desperately seeking', but it appears to have disappeared with Steve's reorganisation. Any parts, leads or insight would be appreciated.

hairygit:
Desperately Seeking is still there, I just looked. I'm on a computer rather than a mobile or tablet, there are limitations with mobile devices I've found.

MrDavo:
Tha's strange, it wasn't there earlier, maybe Steve was trimming the flux capacitor. I'll post this in there in the off chance that anyone has a K2 yoke lying about.

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