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1969 CL450 US Barn Find Restoration
K2-K6:
Assuming all else is up to scratch, it's almost without exception that it's air leaking in (effectively unmeterred) that gives uncontrolled tickover.
Think you're on the right track by eliminating the most likely culprit first.
The felt seals, can you soak them in engine oil while you are fitting the setup? It's usually enough to get a temporary stay of execution to assess it. Although done at the same time as the inlet tracts wouldn't give you defined cause to be satisfied with.
MrDavo:
I fitted the new stubs this weekend, then found she wouldn’t start at all! Checking the plugs showed no spark at all on the left, using my multimeter I eventually traced that to the feed wire from the coil being slightly broken near a connector causing an iffy ‘on / off’ state as I bent the wire back and forth.
That meant a trip out to Halfords to buy a new soldering iron as my old one had become worse than useless. That fixed, and insulated with a bit of heat shrink I was back to sparks on both sides, I reckon I was lucky to catch the problem at home in the garage rather than breaking down miles from anywhere in the dark.
Trying again she started fine, the tickover isn’t perfect yet but much more reliable, I need to go for a ride when the weather improves and take s screwdriver to fettle the carb settings at normal working temperature.
The rev counter fogs up, I had trouble with the CB750 breathing up the cable until I replaced the oil seal in the cam cover. There is an oil seal in the tachometer drive that I will replace, I’m a bit reluctant to order one on its own and suffer the carriage fee for just that, I may wait until I need something else. If that doesn’t work I may need a new cable, mine is the original that came with the bike.
hairygit:
I have found that quite a few Honda oil seals are still available new from Honda, worth getting the part number from CMS and phoning your local Honda dealer, the number nay have been superseded or its listed for another bike, but if it's still available it will save the postage cost.
Sent from my X6pro using Tapatalk
MrDavo:
Thanks I ended up biting the bullet and ordering the tacho cable seal from DS, a couple of weeks delivery as they got it in from the US. The old one was a bugger to get out as there's a metal ring inside the seal, I tapped the new one in with a 10mm socket, the same as I did with the CB750, and job done, no more weather system in the tacho when you start up.
I wanted to take her out for a ride on Sunday, but she was barely running on one pot, much to my disappointment, however many times I fiddled around and swapped plugs etc. She had run better on first start up, however I got a clue from he right hand plug being very sooty.
Last night I had an hour and decided to pull the right carb to check it over, looking for a plastic tray to put the parts in, I noticed that one contained a little brass plug, the one that goes underneath the pilot jet, with a hole to let the fuel in from the main jet gallery. Hang on! I thought, I never had a spare one of those.... :o I whipped the float bowl off and sure enough the plug was missing - problem solved easier than I thought!
Out for another go at a ride today it still ran rough but at least on 2, so I doubled back - going up our hill it must have cleared the fouled plug, and suddenly joy! :D It fair whizzes along, making a glorious row that would be quite legal in 1969, competing with BSAs and Triumphs etc (same applies to CB750 exhausts). I haven't revved her past 7k yet, but the redline is 9.5k or so. As James said, loads of fun. :) When I came back I was astonished to still have a reliable tickover too, unlike my first ride where it died at every traffic light. I don't know for sure if its charging yet, but the lights were still bright after a ride, however I don't see them get brighter when I rev the bike (my usual way of checking). How do I check it with a meter?
Snagging work needed, now I have put 30 miles on the clock:
I have to treat the brakes with respect, being used to discs, but the rear pedal fouls the case, I think I need to find and fit a big washer or spacer to move it outboard. Also. the speedo drive turns itself clockwise as far as the cable lets it - what should locate it? - do I need to nip up the nut on the axle a bit, or is it something to do with the crosshead screw on the drive? Although low mileage, the speedo needle floats around a bit, possibly the damping oil has escaped over the years. Next winter I may be sending it Peter's way if that's the case. Of course the tacho, which he has already had a go at, is perfect.
The indicators are strictly optional in use, they may or may not work, although they seem fine in the garage - I will investigate the switch. It is possible I'll get a NOS switch to properly match the lower half I got from Ashley, they do exist but ain't cheap, but I'll try and fix what I've got first. Also I'd need to take the bars off to do the faff with threading the wires through the holes again.
Bryanj:
Put voltmeter on battery terminals to see voltage static, running with lights off and running with lights on if charging second two dhould be higher than first and preferably about14 volt as to speedo drive it shoulhave a lug on the fork to stop it turning too far but tightening axle nut should also stop it turning.
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