SOHC.co.uk Forums > The Black Bomber Board
1969 CL450 US Barn Find Restoration
jensen:
It's an easy job, the plugs aren't hardened. The new plugs can be made from aluminium and pressed in. Never tried steam, but I don't know if I wanted water in my big end bearings ;) as you mentioned. Next to solvents, patience is mandatory, but mechanical removing is always to prefer....
AshimotoK0:
If you read this fascinating rebuild, linked below, Graham Curtiss (Gman) deals with cleaning cranks on his early CB72. Fascinating stuff. He also is going to show me his jig he constructed for stripping and aligning Honda pressed together cranks the next time I am near Derby. The whole set of posts makes a cracking good read for any Honda nut like me. But the crank stripping starts here:-
http://www.honda305.com/forums/1961-cb72-project-t7634421-525.html
MrDavo:
I see what you mean about my crank being like the CB350 one. As the race shop who are going to clean the crank out do loads of them it will be in good hands. I asked about just cleaning, and got this reply:
--- Quote ---Hello Dave,
We do quite a few 450 and 350 cranks and I do prefer to 'pull' the outer flywheels off, inspect the cages, rods & pins at the same time as cleaning the sludge traps. Obviously the oil passes through the middle main bearings as it is fed to the big ends and it is far better for cleaning if the crank is pulled down as I mentioned. We can then replace the blanks once we have cleaned and inspected the delivery holes.
Cheers
--- End quote ---
I'm going to leave it in his hands, I guess he will have also seen the kind of damage shown in that thread loads of times, that crank has had a hard life!
I found a plastic box the right size, but no lid. I bought 2 and cut the bottom off one to make a lid, its now in there with a load of bubblewrap. Tonight I'll seal it up, weigh it and look on Parclemonkey for carriage options, that worked well when I sent my CB750 stuff to Menno.
Of course when i picked the crank up, rollers went everywhere, I rounded them up and put them in a freezer bag. I'm guessing grease is the word when you are putting the crank back in.
On another topic, here are my two tachos, never one for an easy life I'm now considering swapping their insides, to use the steel outer, matching my vgc speedo, and the unfaded guts of the plastic one.
kent400:
When you do swap the tacho internals over do check the dial face screws are tight as they have a tendency to become loose on the types with a metal face and the small-headed screws. Also check the inside of the base is ensure there is no corrosion, if there is flakes of rust can be attracted to the internal magnet and jam the gauge. The light tubes can also come loose, they are only glued in and a spot of two-part resin adhesive will resolve that.
MrDavo:
Will do, thanks. My first concern is getting in and out without butchering the bezel.
Does anyone know what the difference is between CL450 and CL350 / SL350 handlebars? All three have different part numbers, but the difference is the three digit model code in the middle. I’m asking as I need a set of bars and some 350 ones have come up on the bay of fleas.
Maybe the 450 bars are wider because it’s a bigger bike, but I don’t know and can’t find out.
ETA: I bought a pair of round tank badges today with the '450' underneath, see 'Desperately Seeking' for a picture.
Here's the link in case James wants a more correct set ;) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152820302352
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