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400 Four strip down.

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K2-K6:
As you say,  generally from those pictures the bores don't look bad as the hone marks are still clearly visible. A better view of them would be wise after they are removed.

Cylinder head, initially leave valve in and with it upside down on a bench,  fill each combustion chamber with something like thinners (or vodka  :) )  and leave to see if it seeps out past the valves and runs out the ports. It'll tell you if they are sealing or not as initial inspection.

Replacing fins,  use duralumin sheet cut to rough shape and tig tac to barrels,  then complete weld followed by coarse emery or file to shape.

Clutch cover,  if it was welded with any contaminants like oil in material it can be porous so refinishing it could expose some holes. But worth trying to reshape the outside,  use emery cloth and plenty of paraffin to get good finish. If it's too much of a problem it may be worth sourcing another if you cannot get at decent cost.

Getting barrels off,  someone else on here went through recently (maybe worth search for post)  but I'd start by putting penetrating oil down the stud holes that are the external ones. They can be really stuck by the base gasket and maybe worth tapping at centre front and rear with softwood drift to get the gasket to release. Don't prise the fins though.
Added to clarify,  try to tap barrels back and forth not upwards,  aim to get the base gasket to release before you go any further.

Nurse Julie:

--- Quote from: GregShiv on December 06, 2017, 10:47:37 PM ---Update on engine strip.
I have taken the head off but the block is reluctant to even move, wooden mallet did not help.
Any suggestion as to the best way to get the block off without further damage to the aluminium?

--- End quote ---

I had difficulty getting mine apart. After checking again that all the bolts had been removed it was a case of persevering with the mallet and eventually it started lifting. As mine had the original factory fitted gasket in situ, it was well stuck together. Don't attempt to prize up by the fins, it will end in more tears  :'( :'(

taysidedragon:

--- Quote from: GregShiv on December 06, 2017, 10:36:36 PM ---
--- Quote from: taysidedragon on December 04, 2017, 11:12:06 AM ---The clutch cover repair is pretty ugly. If you grind it down smooth you might open up a hole or crack underneath and need another weld to repair. What's the inside of the cover like?

--- End quote ---

The picture of the other side of the cover is included.
Look just as bad but there looks to be plenty of metal on both side to get an improvement?

--- End quote ---

I noticed that later. That's the problem when you view it in a hurry! 😕

Good luck with the grinding and polishing. ☺

GregShiv:
Thanks for the reply's guys.

I have put plenty of penetrating oil down all the stud holes and will give it another try over the weekend.

I will then give everything a good clean so I can examine it all properly and will post a few pictures.

I am planning on getting all the alloy parts aqua blasted at some point.

GregShiv:
Update.

The frame has been welded and realigned at Maidstone Motorliner. Headstock, exhaust hanger and rear frame rails were all out of alignment.

Where the metal had rusted at the rear left shock mount it had also rusted at the frame rail this was all welded/brazed and made good.

frame has now been powder coated along with all the other black parts but I am still waiting to get the top yoke back as the powder coat had bubbles showing.

Still waiting to get the engine casing back from the vapour blasters!

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