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Soldering Cable Nipples

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Yamahawk:

--- Quote from: Tomb on December 05, 2017, 08:41:03 PM ---+1 more, but its bloody expensive >:(

--- End quote ---
Yeah, silver solder ain't cheap, the price of precious metals being what it is today...
Hehe what about Maxwell's silver hammer?  :D I bet that's a pretty penny too!
Charlie

Jore:
I've used regular solder for sweating pipes on the clutch of my bike without issues, I first make a mold with wood and drill a breather hole on the side, I melt some flux in to it and then add the  cable prior to the melted solder.

philward:
Just wanted to post a recommend for cable making service. Earlier in the post a few members commented at the price of Venhills cable making. (and I agree based on the cost of them making me a back brake cable for my CR Rep). I have just used Cabletec of Sutton in Ashfield and they have minimum labour costs that are a tenner and the service and quality is excellent

Moorey:
Whilst silver soldering may look like it does a better job and run better, it does have more wettability, invariably what will happen is the cable will be overheated with the torch altering the structure of the cable and weakening it making it more likely to break just as it comes out of the nipple. Steel ropes and wire cables should not be taken to temps above 350C. You do not need to use such high temps if using soft solder or white metal.
If you heat the cable until it reaches only blue in colour it will already be at approx 300C . Dark Grey and heading to Black and you are over 425C. Use as little heat as possible but ensure a good flow of solder.
Splay the cable end ensure it is grease free and add little flux. As always with soldering cleanliness is next to godliness.

philward:
Moorey, that is exactly what happened when I tried it with silver solder! As a result I sent it to Cabletec

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