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Slight modification to ASH's Ignition coil fix

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philward:
Can't remember but if you start grinding back from the lead entry point, you will be able to stop before the terminal. In my experience (only 2 sets), when you grind down to the leads, grind only half way into the insulation so that you still have a 'tunnel' to feed the new lead into (just enough for the lead to flick out and the new lead to flick back in - that way, the new lead is held in with a little bit of friction that holds the tinned copper leads to the old tinned copper lead, allowing you consentrate on the soldering (without new lead moving away from static old lead) - if that makes any sense.

philward:
This the soldering iron I used (Ash suggested it) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-SD100-Soldering-Iron-100W/121093453336?epid=1042172152&hash=item1c31bb7618:g:cu0AAOSwezRb6~T-

AshimotoK0:
There is a brass terinal near the end of the bulge. However, if you decide to desolder the wire from it and resolder the terminal  then do so with great caution. The plastic used is thermoplastic .. i.e. it melts when hot and if you are not careful  the terminal flops around if the plastic around it melts and can break the ultra fine secondary wire soldered to it. If this happens the coil is essentially scrap.

philward:
I suppose you get what you pay for! Does work ok though and have 2 other lower power guns for the smaller connector work

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