Gearbox

[cb550k-aaron]

That sound will be the ratchet pawls inside the kickstarter gear, it's normal but with the casings on and the engine running you don't hear it.

Thought that but just wanted to make 100% sure. Coming along nicely and everything is all Ceramic Coated. Treated myself to a dynatek ignition too

[cb550k-aaron]

https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb550k3-four-england_model14671/collar-shift-drum_24433323010/#.Wui_jEzTWfA

Anyone got one of the above?

[loafer]

Hi new to the site , First post , been using the american site ,didnt know about this one.got a 77 550 with a smashed 3rd gear. just fit a new trans and drum & forks i got of e bay £80 , seems in good condition , just about to re join cases.
theres quite a long thread i posted on sohc.net.
 a bit worried about fiting primary shaft when i have re joined cases , not much room for starter clutch ect , is it best to loosly fit primary chain on sprocket first ?  when removing the primary shaft i couldnt get the chain off the sprocket untill i split the cases a little.
cheers Paul

[loafer]

new transmission

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V6FB7nxeJh8

[Seabeowner]

I'll bump this to the top and a few more experts will be along in a minute.
But you assemble the starter clutch/cush drive bits and put the primary chain over and a round the gear and then assemble the cases with it loosely in place and then push the primary shaft through. Careful with the needle bearing.

For reference: You can (just about) remove and replace the starter clutch/cush drive with the cases all assembled by wriggling it free from the primary chain and similarly getting it back, (you have to remove the starter idler gear for this)

but why make the job difficult if your cases are split.

[loafer]

thanks for the advice , i was thinking of doing it that way.
 

[Bryanj]

Welcome and glad you found us, fitting primary shaft after joining cases is the only way to go

[loafer]

going to join halves , probably sunday !! . is that blue hylmolar stuff good enough ?
here,s what happened when i split cases , drilled it out though .

[loafer]

oops

[Nurse Julie]

Noooooooo Hylomar of any colour !!!!. The lightest, lightest smear of Honda Bond, so thin, you can hardly see it.

[loafer]

thanks , i,ll look for some hondabond !!

[Rob62]

Hondabond or threebond is good stuff but there are different grades available so pick the right one and use very sparingly. I used TB1207B on my NSR250 engine rebuild about 5 or 6 years ago, very thin smear on meteal to metal faces (crank cases). Ridden it regularly since then including several track days and never leaked a drop.

[loafer]

Got the cases back together ! i fit all the changing mechanism and the gear pedal.
all the gears select fine .  i,v just one small concern , maybe i,m being paranoid !
when selecting gears i was rotating input shaft {clutch not fitted yet] c/clockwise to help selection , needed a bit of effort , smooth but had to grip the shaft in palm of hand to turn it ! anyone know if this is normal . i could spin both shafts very ealily with fingers when cases were split .cheers

[K2-K6]

Doesn't sound right to me,  although others on here have far more direct experience with this engine so may give you better insight.

The original breakage of the gear dogs looks like it's had two gears engaged at the same time which has caused it to shear the drive dogs. That, obviously, shouldn't happen.

I'd look further into it in trying to avoid potentially repeating the original fault.  Generally, bike gearboxes without connection to the rest of the drive train will spin with ease and you can rattle them back and forth to get the change sequence checked out.

[loafer]

yea everything spun freely when cases were apart , all gears selected [ still do ]  its just since i joined cases and put primary shaft in !! taking it apart again tomorrow !