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Battery

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Lobo:
...it all started out for me on a quite back-roads 45 min “poodle” to thr the local airfield for lunch & a gawp, bugger me, the bike wouldn’t start afterwards. Everything new on it, inc the loom. Hence my interest / delve into it all. My ‘standard ops’ now is to switch off the main beam anytime in stop/start traffic, or any generally low rpm riding.

FYI, just done a quick look at the numbers. All figures approx... and accepting the Voltage regulator has a part to play, but just trying to keep it simple...
The Alternator (max) output @ 5000rpm is 13A. At low rpms this output is significantly less...
Coils will each take 2.5A, main beam 4A, tail 0.5A, indicators 3.5A.
Straight away you can see simply running with main lights on is 9.5A, and then indicating puts you up at 13A. Add in loom / switch gear inefficiencies (old bike) and it’s all a bit tight, and certainly negative charge territory if running at low speed with main lights on.

Trigger:
Yep, I know someone that pulls in to a filling station, full head lights on, tail light on,  just taken there hand off the brake lever, indicator still flashing and then turns the key to off. No name mentioned  ;D ;D ;D
These batteries do take some stick  ;) 

Bryanj:
I seem to remember Hondas handbook sayingto not exceed the red bad for a significant time!

Nurse Julie:

--- Quote from: Trigger on June 07, 2018, 07:38:51 AM ---Yep, I know someone that pulls in to a filling station, full head lights on, tail light on,  just taken there hand off the brake lever, indicator still flashing and then turns the key to off. No name mentioned  ;D ;D ;D
These batteries do take some stick  ;)

--- End quote ---

That may be the case but I never have trouble starting the bike with all the above still on !!! 🙂🙂🙂

Speed:
Good point on the headlight as well, I ride with headlight on and hadnt considered that! you boys know yur stuff!

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