Chain size?

[jon stead]

My clutch cable snapped at the handlebar lever a few weeks ago.

When I had the sprocket cover off, first time on this bike whilst I’ve owned it, I found the clevis on the clutch operating arm, worn through on one side but the clutch cable was still attached and engaged. Once I’d prised the cable end out, the worn clevis wouldn’t work with the new cable, the nipple just pulled through. Bit the bullet and bought a new arm from D Silvers. Fitted this, new push rod and ball, courtesy of Trigger, cleaned everything up, greased everything and adjusted. All working good.

After about 200 Miles, thought I heard strange noise from sprocket cover and took it off. Found collision damage on the new clevis. Measured chain and found the pin lengths to be 21.5mm and width between plates to be 20mm. Checked split link and found pin lengths to be 23.5mm. I am guessing it’s the split link pins hitting the clevis so I’ve turned the split link so the clip runs on the inside of the chain for now.

I have no idea if this is the correct chain for the bike and an old thread on here says it’s not possible to fit o ring chains as they’re too wide. However CMSNL site sells an O ring chain that they claim is suitable for CB500K2 .

Can anybody advise where I can get the correct chain for my bike please? I’m not bothered about colour, o ring, etc., I just want the correct one that won’t rub on anything.

[jon stead]

Below pics Show pin lengths and chain width

[Nurse Julie]

David Silver standard chain. But, your damage may be caused by clutch adjustment, is the cork screw thingy fully home and have you checked to make sure the original ball bearing still isn't in there somewhere?.

[Nurse Julie]

Standard chain.

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

[K2-K6]

In addition to the above,  look from the rear of bike along the chain to see if the front sprocket is in correct and straight alignment.  You may have to take off the chain guard to sight it easily. 

[jon stead]

David Silver standard chain. But, your damage may be caused by clutch adjustment, is the cork screw thingy fully home and have you checked to make sure the original ball bearing still isn't in there somewhere?.

There’s only one ball bearing in and the cork screw thing is fully home. I was thinking of trying an additional ball bearing in there, to move the adjuster outwards to create more clearance between it and the chain. However, I’m confident that turning the split link round, so the long pins of the split link now protrude on the inside of the chain, will have given me clearance.

[jon stead]

In addition to the above,  look from the rear of bike along the chain to see if the front sprocket is in correct and straight alignment.  You may have to take off the chain guard to sight it easily.

Cheers, I’ll check that.

[jon stead]

Standard chain.

(Attachment Link)

Hmm, yours is 19.5mm where mine is just under 20mm. I didn’t clean the grease off before measuring, so it could be 19.5mm.

As I said in another reply, I think it’s the longer pins of the split link colliding with the clevis when the clutch is disengaged. It’s on test now.

[Nurse Julie]

Can you see corresponding damage on the split link pins?

[jon stead]

Can you see corresponding damage on the split link pins?

Not 100% sure, but possibly, yes

[jon stead]

Why not just replace the split link with a riveted pin?

Yes, I could if that’s the fault as it would seem I have the correct chain. So far so good reversing the split link though.