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CB750F2 .... silk purse from a sows ear.
Trigger:
Nothing wrong with those rod numbers, it is the letter code that is important as this is the weight and should be all the same ;)
The roll pin can be a bugger sometimes, if you can't get it out with grips then, tap a thread down the middle, insert a bolt and pull. If you bugger it, don't worry as i have a tray full of NOS ones.
SumpMagnet:
Good idea on the thread thing....I'll give that a go.
Also handy to know where I can get one if I mangle it!
I'll also check the letter codes on those rods.
Not going to leave the kickstart in place as I want to properly wash, strip and paint the cases and that means no roller bearings around!
SumpMagnet:
Today...the engine strip was finally complete.
The pesky pin needed mole grips to 'squash' it enough to get it free. It's out....but it will need replacing. Tried threading it....was perfect for an M4 ... but the bolt wasn't able to handle the pressure and every M4 bolt I put in just stripped as soonas I put it under load. Brute force won the day.
Similar appraoch with the gearbox sprocket. That finally succumbed to a combination of penetrating fluid and violence. It was REALLY stuck on the splines. Had to come off though. The dust seal was shot and wasn't seated in the cases right. Grit had clearly got past it as the large bearing was making that grinding noise bearings make when they want to be thrown away. The smaller inner bearing was notchy too. See no good reason to put a rough bearing back in the cases....don't plan on pulling it all apart again that soon!
Packaged everything up, cleared the decks and tidied up. Next job is to strip the chipped and flaky paint off the cases, clean them back and get a coat of black engine enamel on.
I also have to put together parts list no1 .... the bits to replace for the bottom end.
1) Primary chains...more slack than there ought to be
2) Primary chain tensioner... the spring was weak and the wheel rock hard.
3) Camchain. Why not.....as the crank is out.
4) Final drive bearings & seal
5) crankshaft end seal.
6) roll pin for kickstart.
7) 4 new screws for gearshaft bearing carrier.
8) Any o-rings lurking around...there are a couple between the cases.
9) Order gasket set & Hondabond
Jeez...long list! I was expecting the project to soak up a couple of grand before I was done....with the largest slice of that going into the engine. So here goes.......
Trigger:
1) Primary chains...more slack than there ought to be >> I always replace as, you don't want to be going in the bottom end again.
2) Primary chain tensioner... the spring was weak and the wheel rock hard.>> Once hard they start to get little chips.
3) Camchain. Why not.....as the crank is out. >> Upgrade with a FTH and check the midwheel, tentioner and guide.
4) Final drive bearings & seal >> Check all the bearings in the gearbox and the clutch lifter bearing.
5) crankshaft end seal. >> All seals come in a engine seal kit.
6) roll pin for kickstart. >> PM me your address and i will pop one in the post.
7) 4 new screws for gearshaft bearing carrier. PM me and i will pop a set in with the roll pin.
8 ) Any o-rings lurking around...there are a couple between the cases.>> There are a few o'rings that will need replacing, 1 on the main oil gallery bungs and 2 on the bottom bungs, 1 on main oil gallery blanking bung, 1 on the neutral switch, 1 around the crank case dowel, 1 on the clutch lifter rod. 1 on gear shaft carrier ( I always upgrade these to viton )
9) Order gasket set & Hondabond >> The engine will leak oil without them ;) ;D
10) You will also need a oil pump rebuild kit.
11) Don't try to remove the engine studs unless they are very rusty ;)
paul G:
Coming along nicely :D As Trigger said replace ALL the gearbox bearings (I did) false economy not to as in the grand scheme of things not that expensive and you don't want to be going back in in a couple of years :o :o Trigger may have them if not Yamiya are cheaper than Silver even with the post and capture fees.
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