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CB750F2 .... silk purse from a sows ear.
SumpMagnet:
ahh....nothing slows progress like not being able to get stuff in a pandemic.... but we do what we can, becuase it helps stay sane!
So...I decided it was high time I sorted out the petrol tank properly. I had made a start and got the paint off....but had found 2 large plugs of filler..one on each side.
Initial investigations showed nothing underneath to worry about, and so I bagged it and did other things.
So...having ruled out heat and chemical appraoches for filler removal, I hit the stuff with the old Black and Decker and a wire wheel. Heat and fuel tanks is not something I like mixing. doubt very much there is any fuel vapour left in there, but I still worry about distortion. Chemicals...well...can't get a stripping compound that works through available retail outlets.
So...much dust later ( improvised mask was not that effective...so I will probably now die of some obscure Victorian mining disease.... ) but the stuff is off both sides. Tank actually looks pretty damn clean for a 42 year old petrol tank. There is one tiny ding about hte size of a penny, which hadn't been filled....
What has clearly happened is the previous owner decided Honda badges just didn;t fit with the Outlaw matt-black look he wanted, so he binned them and filled the mounts with a metric tonne of Bondo. Removing....I find the badge mounts still in place, the badge recesses pristine with remnants of shiny paint...and I even managed to tease the bits of filler out from behind hte badge screw mounts. Small zip-ties make good 'filler saws' and don;t bend or damage the metal.
Which leads me to a question....
The badges screw onto the tank, and I see the 2 holes each side in the spot welded on bar in the bagde recess. In each hole is a flimsy, thin metal insert. All 4 seem to be there...and I assume these provide an 'edge' for a machine screw to bit on and screw in.
Can these be replaced?
I haven't tried putting any screws in yet, as I need to find out what size they are meant to be...but I assume this is in place of trying to tap a thread into thin metal. Back in the day...I would guess the 'self tapper' would have been the answer...but that would wreck the inserts and potentially widen the holes.
Whats's the best way to deal with that?
SumpMagnet:
The reckless spending continues.....not to happen.
But...I now have a left hand side panel to cover the space that was previously vacant.
Bought from LPM, ordered at the weekend, and on my doorstep by Wednesday. Can't argue with that.
I also can;t argue with the quality. Compared to the stock panel on the other side, it is thicker, weightier, and has a lot more supporting the lugs and areas where a lot of the 'used' examples I have seen had cracked. Consdiering I was seeing genuine but damaged panels fetching £80-£90 in teh wrong colours and in need not just of repair...but paint too. And lacking badges.... the cost of the LPM panel is a steal.
Good quality...good service...good price.
wouldn't hesitate to recommend them to anyone looking for pattern panels
Bryanj:
Also more flexible than original
SumpMagnet:
Finished the tank cleanup, and the tap is even servicable....aside from needing a new seal between it and the tank. No filters on the tap......so an inline filter will be required.
Very happy with the state of hte metal. Total of 3 very small dents to fix. Lots of good steel.
As the tank will be black, gave the underside a coat of smooth hammerite. Need to makle sure it is fully cured before petrol gets near it...as I know what happens otherwise. But it will help prevent corrosion where you can;t see it or clean it.
New set of tank rubbers and badge clips coming from DSS, and when I get some more primer and rust treatment...I will give the tank a basic black rattle can job.
Having to make some serious design decisions now though. Do I go for a stock style seat and bars....or do I go for drops and a single seat for that cafe reacer vibe.
Maybe something like this....
http://www.meadspeed.com/resources/meadspeed/media-files/products/honda/cr750/seat/no-cut-out/main.jpg
as the one thing I will NOT be doing is chopping the frame rails
If I had a stock seat already, I would just go that route. But my project came with a hideous US 'chopper' seat and high bars with oddly angled ends that put your wrists at a silly angle.
Fork legs going off to Philpotts shortly... and teh search is on for replacement chain adjuster blocks. The pieces that fit into the end of hte swingarm. One is fine...the other is corroded to hell and pitted badly. I can smell a rolling chassis in the not too distant future
K2-K6:
It's good you've a decent tank out of it after the stripping etc.
Looks are obviously personal, but I think they do look good with the std seat cowl on them with the light lifted up and more inside the housing, plus a shorter rear mudguard. Bit more of a "california" look to it.
Slightly flatter bars and a bit wider, more like an American superbike type look with an inch or so longer shocks to give it that production racer stance.
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