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1975 400/4 project
Sprocket:
Not a massive update, but I've had the front wheel off, painted the spokes individually with Chrome paint, and refurbished the disc. Also put the correct grub screw in the speedo drive cable hole, and put a new pinch bolt in the rear brake lever.
Next task is the abhorrence that is the brake caliper. There was a ton of gungy brake fluid all round the pad, to the extent I couldn't pull the pad out. Had to fill up the reservoir and attach the lever to the bar, and pump it for about 10 mins to get it to push it out. The piston has got loads of dents and rusty spots but I think the caliper might be salvageable.
Nurse Julie:
Good progress.
Bryanj:
Caliper is always fine BUT warm the body to uncomfortable temp before trying to undo the bleed nipple and clean the seal groove out scrupulously clean. Stainless Piston and seal kit about £30 on ebay and you only have 1 neck!!
Sprocket:
So I'm up to the point where I want to put my replacement (Japanese sourced used and very good condition) loom on to the frame. And now I'm noticing all kinds of horrendous bodges, among the general clean and tidying.
The fuse box has no lid and has been chock blocked. I was about to use the connector from the rectifier when I thought it would be far, far less bother to just get a replacement.
The ignition switch works with the one extremely worn key, but as you can see it's not in great nick. After disassembly and reassembly it's much better, but I can still take the key out when it's in the 'ON' position. Anyone know what's up with that?
Bryanj:
Ignition switches that have been used a lot get like that i'm afraid and if you fit new then the seat lock has a differentbkey.
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