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CB400 Four special (Mr Sinx II )

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Bryanj:
Dont want to pee on your parade but look carefully at the pivot of the swingarm. It looks like the alloy bushes are pivoting on the long bolt and not the original collar, if so this is not a good idea for several reasons.
1 the bolt is designed to be tightened till it pinches the collar in the frame
2 bolt is not as strong as povot
3 grease dont get in to lube things properly.

If it is that way should not be difficult to machine bushes to take pivot, just make sure it is pivot that is clamped not bushes I.E. pivot fractionaly longer than seing arm is wide.

K2-K6:
I can't remember accurately Bryan,  but thought I recall that Dresda used taper roller bearing arrangements to support their swingarm. 

Those look like they could be with the aluminium outer providing a sleeving into the bearing bore to size them onto std Honda pivot bolt.

In which case to be ideal they should have a clamped distance tube between the two races.

Trigger:
Dresda used taper roller bearing  ;)

Northy:
There's a set of taper roller bearings in there , same as I had in 1980's ........all pee removed   ;D

Anyone got an old seat base  ?  making my own seat as can't get what I want.
 



Northy:
Ok folks back again  and things are going slowly  due to a number of factors (don't want to bore you will that)

So this a tale of two tanks

The red one got washed with acid inside this time and yet more 2 pin holes appear ....chemical metal call into play and time to seal the tank up. I normally use POR 15  but everywhere seem to be out of stock on the small tins. So decided to go for tapox  [ Guests cannot view attachments ]

Well its crap , firstly the temperature needs to really high to ensure the solvent evaporates and instructions say to pump air into the tank for 5 hours !  to ensure the solvent doesn't condense inside the tank and wash away the sealant. Also you use only use a 1/3  of the tin. Well even in green house it took for ever to dry, 2 days. I pumped air into via the hole for the petrol tap and ok that side but the other side had condensation even after 1 hour and washed the sealant away (bit like red oxide) Added more stuff to cover the washed away bit but still same effect . Even the left over stuff in the tin took a week to go off (yes it was all mixed properly)....Rant rant 

So about given up on the red tank ......move to blue tank (thanks Peter)
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Once the paint was removed even more rusty stuff under it  but it didn't leak and even once the inside was cleaned out , no leaks , phew
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Problem was loads of rust pin prick holes  once the rust was removed  and what I'd call micro  dents

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