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New (to me!) '77 CB400F - US model
mattsz:
--- Quote from: Bryanj on January 21, 2019, 06:25:06 PM ---Just recently done a cbx 550 so i can definitively tell you that if you do not want a leak the strainer pushes into the petcock then you fit the washer/O ring before fitting the assembly to the tank
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--- Quote from: Bryanj on January 21, 2019, 10:02:19 PM ---Yup, reserve fuel still goes through the srainer on normal through the tubeso seal position means nothing.
As to the tube staying in the tank and being flush---they all do that sir just sorta happens.
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I can't get my head around this apparent contradiction - the o-ring must go on over the strainer if you don't want leaks, but then the strainer doesn't stay there, but ends up "outside" the o-ring, flush in the tank - and they all do that? Shouldn't they all leak, then?
mattsz:
--- Quote from: mattsz on January 09, 2019, 02:21:26 PM ---Regarding the clutch...
It seemed to work fine three years ago when I rode it last, but now it's become extremely difficult to pull. I won't hazard a numerical guess about the actual force required, but it's not safe to ride in this condition. It can be fully pulled, and it does return on its own, albeit a bit sluggishly.
Aside from the obvious possibility of a binding cable, what else could be the trouble?
Might this be expected of a bike that's been sitting for a couple of years? In other words, should I be thinking about solving this problem before I try running it (whenever that turns out to be)? Or might it sort itself out with some oil circulation and exercise?
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--- Quote from: Bryanj on January 09, 2019, 02:37:29 PM ---Almost certainly cable and as a hint DO NOT oil an original cable as the onner is rubber coated and the outer nylon lined, oil tends to "swell" both and make the cable tight. Aftermarket cables may dispense with one or both of the linings and be safe to oil but i dont comment on that!!
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Bryan - after our discussion on the other forum about clutch cable sources, I went looking and found a couple, but while they show photos of cables correctly tagged with part numbers, I can't get them to confirm that they're actually correct - one ebay guy just promised that what I see is what I get (despite a reviewer claiming he didn't get what was pictured when he ordered). Partsnmore in Canada has never heard of a high-bar version of the bike, so can't comment, but asked for measurements. So, I went to the bike today to remove the clutch cable...
Recall your comment above about the cable. Now take a look at the photos:
I barely got one of the clutch cover screws off - rusty!
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This doesn't look great:
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Water must have gotten in through the cable opening?
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I was able to exercise the clutch with great difficulty, and it returned to rest, but now that the cable is out, I cannot budge the wire in its housing!
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Yep, new cable (and cover plate screw) time! Any way to prevent that moisture intrusion?
Bryanj:
Looking at the clutch cable will the nipple on the end go through the hole in the screwed adjuster? Also give me length of outer cable and inner cable.
Yes water gets in through the adjuster but that cover is supposed to come off at service to check clutch adjustment and most mechs of my era used to lube everything excessively!!
mattsz:
--- Quote from: Oddjob on February 04, 2019, 10:04:06 PM ---The filter fits inside the tank spigot, it's flared at the bottom end so it can't disappear inside the tank, it's a tight fit inside the spigot so no petrol can get to the fuel tap without going through the filter, the O-Ring just seals the inner collar on the tap against the bottom of the tank spigot, the large outer nut compresses it against the spigot so it seals and stops any leaking petrol. Most people tend to overtighten the outer nut which causes the O-Ring to expand, flatten out and get stuck in the threads of the outer nut. Hence why yours looks in pretty poor shape. Don't worry about the filter fitting inside the tap, so long as it fits inside the tank spigot it's doing it's job.
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Oddjob, that's certainly the way I found mine, but others are suggesting other possibilities. One thing I think I may not have considered, is that I think the '77 USA models have a different petcock than the earlier ones, so we may have been comparing apples and oranges...
mattsz:
--- Quote from: Bryanj on February 04, 2019, 10:28:56 PM ---Looking at the clutch cable will the nipple on the end go through the hole in the screwed adjuster? Also give me length of outer cable and inner cable.
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Bryan, it's hard to tell since I can't budge the cable, but after measuring it does appear that the clutch housing end nipple would fit into the threaded adjuster if I could pull it - the nipple measures about 5.7mm at its widest, and the inner diameter of the adjuster seems to be about 6.3mm, although it's hard to measure with the cable in the way.
Dimensions...
* Inner cable length, ball-end to ball-end… 45 inches
* Outer housing length, metal sleeve at handlebar to end of adjustment screw at clutch housing… 41-5/8 inches
* Adjustment screw at clutch housing… 1-11/16 inches
* There’s also a protective sleeve around the outer housing, about 13-1/2 inches long, which starts about 17-1/2 inches from the metal sleeve of the outer housing at the handlebar
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