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New (to me!) '77 CB400F - US model
mattsz:
--- Quote from: Bryanj on July 19, 2019, 10:31:27 PM ---The "Opening Up" of the slot is a fairly common thing to see but with that and wear on the frame lug you get too much "slop" I have before now carefully straightened the stand for and put a shim washer under the bolt head to keep it tighter.
--- End quote ---
Thanks Bryan! A shim between the bolt head and stand, or inside the slot next to the frame lug? Not sure what a washer next to the bolt head would accomplish if the tangs (is this the correct word?) on the stand are straight and parallel.
I imagine a fair amount of heat would be required for straightening? Would a propane torch be enough, or are we talking about something stronger, like acetylene?
Bryanj:
Its been a few years since i did one but memory tells me the thread tightens up to a shoulder on the bolt so the bolt does not "squeeze" the fork tight. This means a shim between bolt head and outside of stand will stop it opening up again.
Propane should be hot enough.
mattsz:
--- Quote from: Bryanj on July 20, 2019, 08:55:22 AM ---Its been a few years since i did one but memory tells me the thread tightens up to a shoulder on the bolt so the bolt does not "squeeze" the fork tight. This means a shim between bolt head and outside of stand will stop it opening up again.
Propane should be hot enough.
--- End quote ---
Ah-so, now I see what you're saying! That makes sense. What makes less sense to me is, when this bolt is installed, there's more threads sticking out the inner tang of the stand than are in contact with the tang itself. Makes me wonder if it's the correct bolt after all..
EDIT: belay my last - I see now that there's missing nut to go along with that bolt...
mattsz:
--- Quote from: Bryanj on July 19, 2019, 10:31:27 PM ---The "Opening Up" of the slot is a fairly common thing to see but with that and wear on the frame lug you get too much "slop" I have before now carefully straightened the stand for and put a shim washer under the bolt head to keep it tighter.
--- End quote ---
In case you guys haven't figured this out by now, I'm new to this stuff. I'm visualizing straightening the bent tang with a big hammer, or closing it in a vise, and imagining having it bend at the base where it joins the stand, rather than out near the end where it bent in the first place, so it's still bent outwards at the hole but won't fit back over the frame lug. I was thinking that finding some kind of frame-tang-width spacer to insert in the gap while straightening the tang would save me from bending any part of it back too far - but then, I imagine that some spring-back would occur and a spacer would prevent getting it straight at all.
What's the best way to approach this? Heat and a big hammer? Heat and slow pressure in a vise?
K2-K6:
Agree with Bryan assessment of spacing etc.
Also think your assessment of correction is bang on the money regarding how it's going to go back.
It looks like it's bent from the edge of the hole nearest the blind end of the fork outwards from there , but as you suspect, I think just squeezed back with no support will result in bending at the root of the fork if not supported.
I'd go with a support internally from blind end to start of hole. Then heat the bolt head side directly, and squeeze it inwards with "vice" grip type tool as you can set it to not pinch too far.
If not hot enough it will spring back, you'll feel it yeald if temp is high enough and it'll stay put like that.
It's the pointed blue tip in a flame that's hottest, get that point just touching the surface and it should get to traffic light red which will signal it's hot enough to yeald.
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