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New (to me!) '77 CB400F - US model
mattsz:
--- Quote from: Oddjob on October 09, 2019, 06:18:48 PM ---The thing with the twisted wire makes me wonder if the bike has ever been stolen?
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Ooooh, the plot thickens! While this is certainly an intriguing possibility, I doubt it's the case. The bikes previous ownership history is pretty well known, and the same type of wire that was jumping the fuses was also holding the broken ignition switch together (physically, not electrically). I really like the "bypassing the broken headlight switch" theory - but that said, anything is possible!!!
Nurse Julie:
--- Quote from: mattsz on October 09, 2019, 10:57:14 PM ---
--- Quote from: Nurse Julie on October 09, 2019, 03:17:39 PM ---
--- Quote from: mattsz on October 09, 2019, 01:13:20 PM ---Sorry for my shameless cross post - I posted a question of sorts in the tricks and tips section, which has had 80+ views to date but no replies. Anyone care to take a look and comment?
http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,20253.msg179895.html#msg179895
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A soda blaster has many uses, including the parts you are talking about. No media is left, so no issues with little bits if glass or sand being left but, it is a slow process blasting anything with soda. The outcome and time spent is entirely dependant in the output of the compressor you are using. It needs to be a high CFM rating to do an effective job.
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Thanks Julie! Where does the baking soda go? Or, do you have to wash the parts and the soda dissolves? I guess the junk you're blasting off has gotta be clean off somehow...
The specs on that tool are, ahh... interesting. The website lists the "average air consumption as 7 cubic feet/min @ 90psi... which is also the maximum pressure...
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The baking soda is water soluble so a rinse in water will sort that. The spec on that tool is nowhere near man enough for the job, you would need 14 CFM at an absolute minimum and that one is only 7 CFM. The CFM is more important than the PSI for blasting any media.
mattsz:
--- Quote from: Nurse Julie on October 09, 2019, 11:16:57 PM ---The spec on that tool is nowhere near man enough for the job
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I'll save my money...
mattsz:
As I mentioned in another thread, I finally removed my broken silencer - despite copious application of heat and penetrating oil over a long period, I just couldn't budge it without making it even worse - if it's possible! I couldn't grip the body, since it was already separated from the connecting end, and any, ahhhh... forceable persuasion... just served to bend and deform the collar where it joins the collector. I literally had to peel the collar away to get it free. Pics... the original break is obvious:
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An additional hole in the bottom at the rear, which I didn't even know was there:
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The collector end, with the graphite-like "gasket" which suffered a bit in the removal as well:
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Anyway, based on all that, I decided not to try and repair it. The usual aftermarket silencer supplied by DSS is out of stock - not like I'm in any hurry for it anyway. Matt at their USA location said that they'd have a new supply of these after the new year. But then he got back to me and said they had a discounted one in stock with a couple of dents, which would be visible when mounted. I don't think I'll regret the tradeoff, since I'm not doing a fancy restoration, and just want to get it running, so I bought it, along with a couple of other items on my list. The savings just about paid for the extra bits and the shipping...
Bradders:
That’s the same place that mine has corroded Mattsz although I don’t think mine is quite so bad as yours. In fact the chrome comes up quite nice with a polish. Also I think my baffles are breaking up as the silencer rattles as you move it.
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