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New (to me!) '77 CB400F - US model
mattsz:
--- Quote from: K2-K6 on October 26, 2018, 06:29:55 PM ---Yes, as you think, it doesn't affect the wear as that is only the hydraulic force clamping it. And also same forces as the modern ""sliding " single piston type.
It is a bit cock-eyed though (in purist engineering principles) as they've started with a swing geometry so the pads will ultimately wear in a taper, then felt the need to give some sort of assistance plus limit to the assembly. Compared to the straight up design within the engine it does appear to be an odd compromise.
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Ahh... the pads wear in a taper, too... never thought of that! Love learning new things...
mattsz:
--- Quote from: Oddjob on October 26, 2018, 06:32:53 PM ---
--- Quote from: mattsz on October 26, 2018, 04:28:27 PM ---Thanks, I'll look for some. Does anyone know if the two "cross-head" screw driver shanks in the OEM tool kit are JIS-friendly?
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I'd imagine they are BUT they aren't exactly case hardened so will break eventually, plus the handle is just not up to the job. The ones in the link are magnetic tipped as well, which helps a great deal in getting screws back into confined areas, especially carbs and such.
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Yes, the handle leaves much to be desired - in its defense, it is portable! I just thought I might use them until I get my own better tools... Too late for the cable set screws... :(
Bryanj:
The other reason for the adjuster is that if everything is free vibration between pad and disc can push the piston back through the seal meaning extra lever travel to get the brake to work
mattsz:
I was going to start a new thread, but for now I think I'll carry on with this one, since I'm still only dipping my toes in here...
Brakes: I removed the caliper, and pumped the piston out before disconnecting the lines. It was all very unexciting, I think I introduced some air into the system which made the piston only move about 0.5mm per lever pump. There's some evidence of corrosion, but nothing like as bad as some photos I've seen. The old fluid was a bit dark but fairly clean, and smelled very strong. I'll rebuild the master cylinder and caliper this winter.
Here's some photos - I'm posting them as thumbnails that can be clicked on for a bigger view...
Not a very well-lit pic of the caliper's interior, but there's plenty of corrosion where the brake pad rests (at bottom of pic, hard to see), and a wee bit where the piston rides, just inside the rubber seal:
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A couple of the piston, showing some corrosion spots and one proper gouge:
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The back of the pad, obvious corrosion on the edge to match that inside the caliper:
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The master cylinder - not too bad. I see two holes only, neither is a pin-sized hole that a guitar e-string might be used to clear:
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mattsz:
I also couldn't budge either the bleed nipple nor the brake line fitting from the caliper - I just left them for now, will try to carefully coax them out later...
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