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1967 CB450K0 Black Bomber Rebuild - By Royhall
royhall:
--- Quote from: mattsz on August 23, 2020, 12:17:50 PM ---Four to six months for chrome? Seven months for paint? Wow - are these guys that busy? Or do they wait until they have a big enough pile of parts on hand to do a run?
--- End quote ---
I had to have a bit of a go at the painter to get my gear back at 7 months. He snapped at me that he was really busy pointing to all the car repairs that had come in during the last week. I pointed it out to him quite firmly that my stuff came in 6 months ago and why are these other customers more important than me. Then the excuse was since the lockdown he has been working on his own so it takes time. He means he was putting the big profit insurance jobs ahead of mine. I hope he stays busy as he wont be getting any more work off me. Plenty of other painters around, it's not like it was multi coloured candy or anything just plain black and plain silver. Had it been something a bit fussy it would have gone to Menno. At least when it was finally done he only charged me £200 by way of an apology so that bit was okay. The chromers on the other hand are always busy but do the jobs in the order they come in which is fair.
royhall:
Just re-read the last post and I guess I must have been a bit upset with the painter, turned into quite a rant. ;D
Fresh from the triumph with the pattern part front mudguard that was a really nice easy fit I decided to have a go at the seat. Both the seat and the new rubber hinge set are both pattern parts, the seat from Vietnam and the hinges from CMS (even has CMS moulded into the side). As this is now a double pattern part assembly, and some parts are from CMS that in my experience are never good, I'm not holding out for an easy fit.
How right I was, the seat fit is not even close. I decided to measure against the original bits to see what was wrong. I put bolts into all the screw holes in both seats to aid measuring. Took about 15 minutes to measure both and to double check and the seat from Vietnam was almost perfect. On the other hand no measuring was required with the seat hinges from CMS as the difference was visual, they are miles out. The front hinge was the worst part, I ended up drilling the holes bigger and shaving some rubber away with a scalpel. I also made packer plates for the right side bearers and the seat lock. After a mornings worth of messing around I have finally got the thing to fit in an acceptable manner. Good old CMS, never fail to disappoint.
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I wont be celebrating the seat fitting just yet as I still have to try it with the tank on. Hopefully it wont interfere or have a large gap? It's a shame I couldn't just re-use the original hinges, but they are so perished they would fall apart.
The purpose of fitting the seat now was to establish how much room I have for fitting the extra electrical items ie the later model voltage regulator and the control box for the electronic ignition which the instructions say to place under the seat. Turns out there is quite a good space beneath the seat so shouldn't be a problem. I then remembered that the air filter cross link was from a later model and the regulator is usually bolted to that. Fitted a treat with just two bolts so that's where it can now live. Bonus.
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The Pamco electronic ignition was next. Although saying in the instructions to fit under the seat and being made for the CB450, there's not enough cable length on either the sensors or the control box. Bit of bad design going on there, almost as if they have never fitted it to an actual bike? After leaving it for a while and giving it some thought (these are the things that stop you sleeping at night) I decided I would make up a special 6 cable wiring harness for it, the ground and the power feed can connect over the back mudguard.
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The tiny wires connected to the control box did not help matters as they were too small to crimp the connectors on reliably. To get around that I soldered on a small piece of larger cable and insulated with shrink wrap, and crimped the connectors onto that. Worked quite well as the cables wont need to flex once installed.
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royhall:
The control box I fixed to the frame cross member with double sided Mammoth tape (hope I never have to take it off), and ran the cables through the holes to the small space between the rear mudguard and the frame. It would have been a good idea to fit the mudguard first as I was a bit surprised just how small that space became.
As always I have run some extra ground cables that connect directly to the battery. In this case I used one of the fixing bolts on the rectifier as a common post. That firmly grounds the rectifier, regulator, electronic ignition, and back light and also better grounds the frame.
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I always scare myself with the electrics as it's starting to look like a pan of multi coloured spaghetti under the frame. The double bullet connector is a live feed for the electronic ignition and the regulator that I ran from the live feed for the back brake switch. As you can see from the second photo, with the back mudguard fitted that space became fairly tight. Fortunately with the air filters removed access to the cables is fiddly but possible.
I wish I could have found a nice new starter solenoid as it looks a bit crabby, unfortunately they are as rare as. It does work perfectly though so that may get changed at a later date should the amazing happen and one shows up somewhere.
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Whilst mentioning the grounds, I gave some thought to the heavy ground for the starter motor. I made up a new 6mm ground wire to the battery negative and connected it to the frame where the rear engine mount fits. This may be overkill and not what Honda did but to ensure the correct grounding of the engine I made a copper piece to fit between the frame and engine fitted behind the mounting plate. How often are breakdowns due to poor grounding, not on my bikes there not (paranoid bike builder warning).
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McCabe-Thiele (Ted):
I've just spent a good time reading this build - i'm impressed by Roy's ability to look beyond the horrific looking starting point to get where he has now.
I would have had some pretty sleepless night with sphincter contractions at various parts of the reveal - just an amazing rebuild - respect. 8) 8)
AshimotoK0:
Making good progress Roy ...you must be a proud man ;)
What I did with my perished seat hinges was to bead blast them clean and then, with the old rubber still on them, I injected all of the cracked /damaged bits with some flexible polyurethane potting compound I had left over from sealing some electronic sensors on a hydraulically raisable pool floor I have just been working on. When that cured, I dressed it with scalpel and then 're-encapusulalted' the rubber parts with the same PU and using sticky tape/Blu-tak Blue Peter style to contain it whilst it cured up. They look acceptable and so that's what I am using rather than buying pattern parts.
The attached pic is them in their 'as treated' state ..they need a bit of trimming and fettling before fitting but that's a long way off anyway. This set looked absolutely grotty before treatment ..one of the metal tubes had totally detached itself from the rubber part.
Still trying to find those 4 pesky rubber seals, unique to the K0, which fit under the crank, for my engine.
My bike was just bins of parts when I got it and the only wiring reference is as below but I could ask on BB FB group for you if you get stuck.
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