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1967 CB450K0 Black Bomber Rebuild - By Royhall
royhall:
I use Rocol but the same thing really. I use thin slitting disks made specially for stainless to cut it out and a sharp file to finish.
philward:
Bike looks superb Roy!
royhall:
The two remaining items have finally arrived back from the chromer, namely the headlight rim and the right hand exhaust header pipe. Now according to CMS the pattern silencers should fit perfectly as they are "Japanese perfection replica's". So what's the score here with the right hand silencer.
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On offering up the silencer the mounting bracket fouls the back of the crankcase by quite a margin. At this point I have no option but to cut into a finish chromed piece, not something I would do by choice. After marking out a line around the crankcase with a black Sharpie, it was just a very careful cut using a very thin disk in the grinder.
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The cut went quite well and after smoothing out and deburring with a fine file I masked the area off and sprayed three coats of cold galvanise to stop the rust (hopefully). If the cold galvanise fails to work the silencer will have to go out for chroming. I used a car scissor jack to lift the silencers into position so I could mark the final hole in the new mounting brackets which was then drilled 11mm to take a 10mm mounting bolt. With the holes drilled I then removed the excess material from the brackets to make a triangular piece, then polished them up on the buffing wheel. To mount the silencers into the correct position I first started with the left silencer and aligned it so the main stand cleared the cut out and hit the rubber stop correctly. To achieve this I used stainless washers to move the silencer left or right, that done I fitted the right silencer packing it so it was even with the left.
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Considering the fitment problems encountered with these so called perfect replica's I am really pleased with the end result. It's annoying that they say they are for the K0 when really they are K1 silencers, but that said I am glad they are available as without them it would be virtually impossible to finish a build like this.
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royhall:
After aligning the silencers with all the bolts just nipped, I started at the front and tightened all the bolts and clamps. At this point the gremlins struck again and one of the 6mm header studs stripped in the cylinder head. It must have been close to going already as I barely got past a light nip before it went. In frustration the garage door got shut on it and I left it for a few days. On return I simply removed the left pipe and Helicoiled the head and put it all back together. Thirty minutes is all it took, but when it happens it's just so annoying it's best to walk away and forget it for a while. The headlamp went on no problem whatsoever and worked perfectly first time.
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The petrol tank was the last item to fit although it had been sitting on the bike for a while. After removing I fitted the new fuel tap and put about 0.5ltrs of petrol in the tank and gave it a really good swill around then emptied it into a clean bowl. The petrol came out as clean as it went in so no problems there. I then put a full gallon of petrol in the tank whilst it was still on the bench to check for leaks. As it appeared to have no leaks I put the tank back on the bike and connected the petrol pipes. Unknown to me at this point I had set myself up for a big scare.
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It's finally time to prepare for engine startup. With the plugs removed and back in the caps I turned the engine on the starter and observed good fat blue spark at both plugs. At this point the electronic ignition is set to a scribed mark to give a rough setting for startup, afterwards it will be accurately set with a strobe light. The engine turned well on the starter so I gave it a short burst to circulate the oil again, the replaced the plugs in the head. I turned on the petrol tap to fill the carbs and check for leaks, once again all is good.
Time to see if the engine will start. Not being sure what the procedure will be I gave it half choke and no throttle. On pressing the starter button I got a nasty metal to metal sound and a reluctance for the starter sprag clutch to engage and turn the engine. The clutch was rebuilt with new rollers, springs, and cups into the old clutch as new ones are totally unavailable. It appears that the original was too worn to be saved so that' s my new problem. Anyway soldiering on, I tried to start the engine again and this time it fired up straight away. Now here's the previously mentioned scare, it went straight to 7000rpm before I could reach under the tank to kill the ignition. Scared the crap out of me and my hands were still shaking 30 minutes later.
A little investigation revealed that when fitting the tank I had trapped the throttle cable splitter box and pulled it out of its housing, as a result the throttle was at about 60%. To be honest I'm surprised the engine started from cold in that configuration. With that sorted I tried again and it started okay with just the tick-over a little high but that easily adjusted to a steady 1000rpm. Unfortunately the starter clutch doesn't want to play anymore so that will now be coming apart again.
Whilst it was running I checked for charging at the battery. Static the battery voltage was 12.7 volts, running it read 12.76 volts so not totally sure it's charging. It's a new AGM battery so I am uncertain if the 60's alternator has the output to better that voltage plus there's now a regulator fitted.
A couple of questions, can I safely disconnect this red wire from the rectifier and run the engine without anything melting. If I can I can measure the charge voltage without it being connected to the battery. Does that sound possible? And secondly does anyone know where I could get a replacement starter sprag clutch or can I replace it with a clutch from another bike.
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MrDavo:
It looks excellent, shame about the starter clutch. Mine was fine but original and unworn, I know people have had trouble with them. Two of my rear rocker cover screw threads could do with helicoiling, but I’d need to pull the motor to get the space to do it properly. In the meantime I have a slight leak from there which I’ll put up with.
Looking at the photos the right side carb to air cleaner band doesn’t seem to be on properly. My air cleaners are the same as yours, and are also a pain to assemble, when I had all the faffing around with float levels and air leaks they were on and off like a naughty lady’s undergarments.
My CL450 doesn’t seem to charge at much of a higher voltage, which did worry me. That said I’ve never had the battery go flat, even with the lights on.
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