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1967 CB450K0 Black Bomber Rebuild - By Royhall
royhall:
All that's left to do now is to set the valve clearances and fill the engine with oil. At that point I will connect a battery to the starter and spin it over. I would like to check that oil is reaching the top of the engine before I button it up.
After going through the valve setting procedure, it was evident that the right side exhaust valve had a clearance problem. It appears that there is just not enough adjustment to set the valve, maybe too much was removed during the cam install?
I won't discuss this further here as it's already been well covered on another thread. http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,19423.0.html
AshimotoK0:
What did you do about the various camchain idlers/tensioners Roy .. did you replace or refurbish them? (see my post)
http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,19495.msg172509/topicseen.html#new
royhall:
--- Quote from: AshimotoK0 on July 05, 2019, 07:27:11 PM ---What did you do about the various camchain idlers/tensioners Roy .. did you replace or refurbish them? (see my post)
http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,19495.msg172509/topicseen.html#new
--- End quote ---
I cleaned and checked all the chain wheels, and they all looked in good condition so they went back in. I thought I was going to have to replace some of them as they were black and cruddy but they cleaned up a treat. Teeth were good and no play in the bushes, so they just got a good oiling. That was a bit of a relief as they are not all available, and what are available are expensive.
royhall:
Sorry this thread has not been updated for a while. Been on a cruise to the North Pole, trip to the Classic TT, and in and out of hospital for several weeks (I won't bore you with the details of that). And I forgot to mention the search and wait for parts as usual. Am now back in the garage so will try to get up to date over the weekend.
royhall:
Short update, I was at the point of closing up the covers but first wanted to run the engine on the starter to check that the oil was getting where it needed to go and not out onto the bench. So after filling up with new 10W-40 to the top mark on the dipstick, I connected to a battery using the original solenoid and lead off the bike (may as well test that at the same time) and a car jumper lead to neutral. Spark plugs out to remove compression to give the starter an easier run and spin the engine faster.
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For now I used the manual button on top of the solenoid to activate the starter. On pressing the button there was nothing but a slight clunk and the engine did not turn. Fearing the worst, I checked the battery with the multimeter and thankfully only 10.9V showing. The battery was goosed. This time I connected to a car battery with a good charge and also connected the solenoid cables. This time the engine spun over really well, and the solenoid also works. After a short while oil could be seen at all the cams and the starter rotor, plus no oil leaks.
The plan now was to fit the cam covers and try one more time to check the covers for leaks. It was a bit of a struggle getting the inlet cover on as a few threads had been repaired and not all were totally square to the gasket face. I managed okay in the end though. One last run on the starter to prove the covers and the starter clutch is now refusing to bite. This was tested before I stripped the engine, so foolishly, was not stripped and checked during the rebuild.
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Unfortunately I don't have any pictures of this bit as my phone went dead and I forgot about it later (getting old, you know how it is).
On removing the starter cover there was a bit of a mess. The sprocket on the starter is not fixed to the motor shaft and is free to slide around. To stop it coming off, the cast cover has an endfloat piece (pipe like) cast into it that just allows the sprocket a few thou float. Unknown to me, the gasket for the cover was a lot thinner than the original, 40 thou to 24 thou. This had allowed the boss to press hard against the starter sprocket and resulted in the boss end actually melting. OOPS.
Whilst I was in there I pulled the rotor back off and rebuilt the starter clutch. I'm glad I did as the rollers had flats and the springs were all different lengths, also the anti magnetic back plate was worn. After a good clean I replaced the worn parts and reassembled the clutch.
The cover was repaired by filing off the melted bits along with the new mushroom shape that had developed to get back to good metal. I then did a dry fit with the sprocket on the starter and use feeler gauges to measure the gasket gap. I then removed about a further 8 thou with the file to give the correct gasket gap whilst checking it stayed parallel to the gasket face with a depth micrometer. The replacement gasket was genuine Honda in a sealed bag and was still 24 thou so I don't really know what was going on there. My suspicion is the the starter is off a K3 and that may have either a different cover or more likely a thicker gasket (the bit of the gasket I scraped off on stripdown was 40 thou). I may never know for sure but at least it's sorted now.
All back together again and just got to run the test again to make sure all is well. Hopefully this afternoon.
UPDATE. The engine now spins over on the starter super fast. No oil leaks to report. ;D
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