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No ignition sparks at the plugs
K2-K6:
Just a reality check for orientation, if you swap the yellow and blue wires to the points and then try starting.
It's just that sometimes they've been assembled (not factory) with them trying to fire the cylinders at bottom of stroke and swapping the two wires will check that for you.
taysidedragon:
--- Quote from: K2-K6 on October 08, 2019, 12:30:57 PM ---Just a reality check for orientation, if you swap the yellow and blue wires to the points and then try starting.
It's just that sometimes they've been assembled (not factory) with them trying to fire the cylinders at bottom of stroke and swapping the two wires will check that for you.
--- End quote ---
He says he has no spark at the plugs at all.
K2-K6:
--- Quote from: taysidedragon on October 08, 2019, 12:56:31 PM ---
--- Quote from: K2-K6 on October 08, 2019, 12:30:57 PM ---Just a reality check for orientation, if you swap the yellow and blue wires to the points and then try starting.
It's just that sometimes they've been assembled (not factory) with them trying to fire the cylinders at bottom of stroke and swapping the two wires will check that for you.
--- End quote ---
He says he has no spark at the plugs at all.
--- End quote ---
My mistake, read the spark description and failed to consider it was "across the points" yep different problem.
Edit:- battery voltage would normally be closer to 12.7 in a healthy system as comparison to the level currently. May not make the difference but you'd ideally need to get it closer by charging or using jump leads from another.
Generally if you fully charge a battery and leave it alone, then 11.7 volts residual would suggest it's impaired.
Moorey:
--- Quote from: K2-K6 on October 08, 2019, 01:48:58 PM ---
--- Quote from: taysidedragon on October 08, 2019, 12:56:31 PM ---
--- Quote from: K2-K6 on October 08, 2019, 12:30:57 PM ---Just a reality check for orientation, if you swap the yellow and blue wires to the points and then try starting.
It's just that sometimes they've been assembled (not factory) with them trying to fire the cylinders at bottom of stroke and swapping the two wires will check that for you.
--- End quote ---
He says he has no spark at the plugs at all.
--- End quote ---
My mistake, read the spark description and failed to consider it was "across the points" yep different problem.
Edit:- battery voltage would normally be closer to 12.7 in a healthy system as comparison to the level currently. May not make the difference but you'd ideally need to get it closer by charging or using jump leads from another.
Generally if you fully charge a battery and leave it alone, then 11.7 volts residual would suggest it's impaired.
--- End quote ---
The 11.7v is at the points not at the battery. So his ignition is on and warning lights so not too bad really. If it was 11.7v on the battery alone after charging then it would be knackered.
Double check your insulator set up on the points 7ohms is nearly straight down to earth. Disconnect the condensors and try again .
Gary400/4:
Many thanks for your further insights, relative to my ignition problem, I take note the kill switch is s potential cause for
concern, grounding faults, chaffed insulation. I will check mine, I agree with the remark that the insulators within the points might be suspect, current might be tracking through to ground? I will remove the items causing resistance within the ignition circuit. As a precaution.
The fact is, 11.7 V DC is detected across the points, given that the battery voltage has flowed through the wiring loom including the primary windings within the coils, switch gear etc. Indicates a healthy Voltage at the points. But I don't think the coil electro magnetic flux and capacitor voltage is being induced into the secondary windings, when the points open, given that the primary voltage has an easier route to ground because of the 7 ohms resistance to ground. I am detecting. I might as well buy a new set of points, to see if that helps. Years ago it was a forgone conclusion to change the points and condensors together. When I used to own a 550/4 I always carried a spare set of condensers, because 9 times out of 10 it was the condensors or one of them, which gave up the ghost causing the engine to limp along firing on 2 cylinders. Which is why I have serviced the points and replaced the condensors for new from Dave Silver spares.
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