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Removal of 1970 - 1971 Steering Locks

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Mr_Sheene:
In the continuing saga of my top yoke, I've received the set that I ordered on e-bay from the USA. I've checked it over and it seems to be okay but I may need to paint it, in which case the bottom yoke gets painted with it. The seller said that the yokes came from a K1 and mine is a March 1970, so I was surprised when I took the plastic cap off the steering lock to find that this one has a steel collar/sleeve, which my other (earlier?) lock does not. Here's the rub. I cannot get either lock out of the yoke. There must be a way, as Honda don't employ magicians to put them in. The original clearly has a pin, which defies all efforts to remove it. Does anyone know a 'trick'? The 'new' one doesn't seem to have anything that I can see to remove. The pictures will hopefully explain it better than I can.

Bryanj:
Put key in, turn and pull assembly out is all i ever do. If you have no key you have to drill the lock out

StevieWonder:
Glad you have raised the subject as I too have a steering lock that the replacement ignition key doesn't fit. Not sure, but I understand from other posts on here that the lock can be removed if you have the key and keys can be ordered against the number stamped on the lock. Trouble is, you can't read the lock number without a key. Hence, others have drilled the lock out and ordered a new lock and key. You may also be able to find matching steering lock and ignition lock (same key operation). Difficult to see how a lock can be drilled out with any finess (given both its awkward location - not a problem for you - and that you are not drilling a solid piece, but a group of loosely assembled parts). Hopefully others can provide details and experienced advice.

Nurse Julie:
You just drill down through the key hole, gradually increasing the drill bit size and the inner workings collapse in on themselves and the whole thing just pulls out. OK, the barrel is then totally knackered and you have to buy a new barrel and key but at least the problem is sorted.

the-chauffeur:
In the second picture, you can see the lock and the yoke mount it's in are different colour metals.  What you need to do is get the lock to turn so the little retaining pin lines up between the two mount sections and the whole barrel will pull out.  If you can read the lock number, your best bet is to find a key, otherwise you'll need to drill in from the front (i.e. through the key slot) and then turn the barrel once the lock mechanism inside is busted.  The same method applies to the other set up, but since it's enclosed it's much harder to see.

Take a look at the images in this post and you'll see a variation on the barrel on the lower lock - the only real difference is that the rectangular section is larger on the CA77 one.  The instructions I wrote in that post about how the lock is removed also apply to the 750 locks.

I've managed to remove a couple of locks without doing either - trust me, it was more luck than judgement and not something I'd recommend.  It only works with the lock mount shown in the first couple of photos (where the lock isn't entirely enclosed.  Basically the method I used involved sticking a screwdriver behind the frame section you can see in your second photo.  Look at the lock end, and you'll see one 'leg' longer than the other . . . I got the shorter leg to bend out just enough for the pin to pass by it by belting it the right way and then knocked it back into place once the lock was out.  But I've since found it's a high risk strategy and should be avoided if you don't want to risk snapping the mount.   

In the last of your images, you can read the lock number - looks to me like it's T3879.  If you haven't already, order one off eBay and while you're waiting for it to arrive, fill the lock with WD40 or some other penetrant - chances are it's frozen in place.

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