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Thoughts on preventing newly de-rusted tank from corrosion.

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mike the bike:
I always wonder why people risk putting tank lining goo in their tanks instead of filling the tank with a copper sulphate solution, putting some copper pipe in the filler, connecting it up to a battery and copper plating it. 

kevski:
Oil in the tank drain off and dry storage, like in my spare room, in answer to Mikes suggestion about copper plating that's a no as it's not that easy and will peel off and block fuel line and carbs eventually, it needs to be copper struck or nickeled first for good adhesion with prior cleaning and pickling and then you need to plate at correct current densities, you would still have problems in the lower areas and along the seems as the throwing power is greatly reduced, oil coating is best.

mike the bike:
Ok,  just wondered.

matthewmosse:
Regards de rusting, I brewed up some cider that wasn't that successful a few years back, it's been sat stewing for years and actually made a really good cider vinegar,  only I dont have a use for 60 gallons of cider! Then last month I was given a large box of rusty engineers drills, I found a 24 hour soak in the cider vinegar got the drills remarkably clean, you could even read the engraved or etched information that was previously lost to rust quite clearly, most came up like new though a few had pitting and theres no reversing that sadly I was amazed at how well that free cleaner worked, and the resulting waste is organic and fine to tip on the compost heap, no disposal issues. I prevented further rust by applying tapping fluid over the top layer of drills in the box, its spread over everything quite well just being left to spread by itself, and I know its effective long term as none of my own drillbits are rusty even after 15 years in a damp shed. In a petrol tankI'd use 2 stoke oil or diesel, if any is left behind when recommissioning I reacon a bit of extra lube for the top end would be no bad thing.

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