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1978 Honda CB550 Supersport - My first retro bike rolling restoration!
motty:
--- Quote from: K2-K6 on June 18, 2020, 01:53:17 PM ---
I'd like to support the contra view,
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Yes, I seem to be a voice in the wilderness on this particular option. However it doesn't hurt to hear a different viewpoint
Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk
woody928:
--- Quote from: Oddjob on June 17, 2020, 01:53:58 AM ---Use 3.2mm line for the small inter connecting pipes Woody, little smear of silicon grease/oil on the brass ferrule and they'll slide on easy. They never need to be removed except when the carbs are dismantled and TBH a tight fit is far better than a loose one in this location. I'd advise the same on the new O-rings, I used to fit 1 & 2 and 3 & 4 carb bodies together with the T pieces and the inter connecting tube and fit one pair to the bracket very loosely, insert the spring retention pin between 2 & 3 and then insert the other pair, again very loosely. You could then connect the lifter arms to each carb before tightening the screws up a little. Might be me but I'd fit all the jets etc after getting to this part, the carbs will stand on the tops of the carbs quite well making it easier to work on. I'd put the top covers on last of all.
Check that the 2 screws fitted to the butterfly system are doing their jobs along with the eccentric cam bolt. Instructions in the manual.
--- End quote ---
Noted with thanks, makes a lot of sense now knowing the function. Certainly lubing the fresh rubber on is no bad thing. Parts supply is certainly slowing me now for sure.
Is it worth getting a tool for measuring the float height? or is is easy enough with a measure?
--- Quote from: Oddjob on June 18, 2020, 02:27:05 AM ---How are the felt rings fitted to the lifter arms Woody?
--- End quote ---
They're all good with the exception of this one:
IMG_8176 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr
Input gratefully welcomed, I feel there's very little that I can do. Again, no idea of its exact purpose.
These bits of rubber are also looking very tired however I've not been able to track down replacements anywhere...
IMG_8070 2 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr
Haha you've got to love an opinion, I feel as though there's merit to both arguments. I'm going to reassemble as is and see how I can get it running however realistically I'd love to replace it. If nothing else its unsightly even if unseen. At the end of the day I only really care about it functioning correctly....
woody928:
--- Quote from: Oddjob on June 18, 2020, 10:03:29 PM ---I've just starting making some of the felt washers for the carbs Woody, I'll send you 4 to test if your interested, FOC.
I soak mine in silicon oil as it lubricates the lifter arm thus ensuring a smoother throttle action.
Proper float gauge is always a worthwhile investment, they ain't dear.
Have you by any chance got a brake bleeder, one of those that sucks out the fluid from the bleed nipple? Saw a decent video today of one of those being used to test the float valve seat, connect it to the fuel intake and pump the bleeder, gauge goes up indicating vacuum created, this whilst the carb is upside down and bowl off, if the vacuum starts to drop there is a leak, maybe on the seat to valve area or possibly the O-Ring on the valve seat not sealing. If you spray it with WD40 for instance you can actually see the air being sucked down past the O-ring. We all assume that leaks are caused by bad seating or wrong float height but we all seem to ignore the O-ring as a potential cause.
--- End quote ---
I couldn't possibly say no to that! 8)
I suppose that's the best bet to try and keep it running smoothly!
True, it's amazing how fast all of these '£20' here and there add up though! :o I believe I'm correct in saying that the correct height is 22mm?
Very interesting, I have got one however I've never been impressed by it. I've never really found a good brake bleeder that I'm really convinced by, I suppose the issue in itself is making a really tight seal for it to test accurately.
It looks like I won't be making the desired progress this weekend while I wait for the rest of the parts to turn up, patience is a virtue I'm told!
woody928:
--- Quote from: Oddjob on June 18, 2020, 11:49:42 PM ---Well now you have a use for that bleeder :D :D You could try sealing off one end of the T piece, connect the brake bleeder to it via a suitable pipe, fit the float valve seat (don't forget O-Ring) and the float valve plus float and pin and then stand on it's head so the float is depressing the pin, then see if you can maintain a vacuum, I suppose like mine it has a gauge on it which increases the more you pump.
If it works maybe you could take a video and show the results so others could copy.
I'll get you 4 new felt rings in the post Woody, let me know how they perform, the problem with them is that they are so fragile, any sideways stress gets them tearing. I'll pre-soak them in Silicon oil as well.
Yep 22mm is right
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hahaha I'll see if I can find it, I always hoped it would be a much more useful tool than I ever found it to be. I think finding something suitable to block off the T joint could be entertaining bearing in mind the vacuum that will be created and associated pressure.
You're a legend Ken, I think I'll be deferring the rebuild until next weekend now. I should have your felt rings then and I've just found a rebuild kit with the correct 98 main jet so intend to replace it for peace of mind. I'm going to check the pipe fitment that I have too and see whether I need to order any 3.5mm.
Thanks for confirming the 22mm, I've got a small steel rule so I'm hoping that'll perform the job just fine.
I also had this kit turn up this morning so fingers crossed there will be no more waiting around for any screws!
IMG_8187 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr
woody928:
Well I feel that I should post something up here, there has been lots of progress made albeit the carbs are still sat on my workbench waiting for the last part to come in before reassembly.
IMG_8270 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr
The front end of the bike has been stripped, I've already refurbished the front brake caliper. There was a some gunk in there and some corrosion so its been through the ultrasonic and given that there was some pitting to the piston that's being replaced. I just need to drop the new piston and seal in now that its been repainted. The brake MC rebuild kit should be in tomorrow to let me crack on with that too. There was a hideous amount of dirt and grime all around the mechanism so its all been cleaned up now. Guess which ones fuel and which one's brake fluid... ::)
IMG_8260 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr
IMG_8248 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr
IMG_8244 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr
As if I needed any more encouragement for my new braided brake lines, these had erm seen better days :-\
IMG_8230 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr
I also realised that this was never going to be going in back straight ever again so I'm, waiting on replacements from David Silvers
IMG_8211 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr
The front forks have been fully stripped and after a battle with the oil seals, they're now free! Much hammering with a pry bar later, after them being extremely stubborn... As you can see the lower threads were looking very sad so I've restored them back to glory and have new stainless hardware to be hidden under copper slip. I'm planning to paint up the lower forks and new seals should be in tomorrow to allow me to rebuild those with fresh oil. The oil looked hideous, it was totally black with deposits in the bottom and smelt horrendous for whatever reason. The forks certainly needed some TLC.
IMG_8280 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr
IMG_8281 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr
IMG_8336 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr
IMG_8339 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr
I also have a new aftermarket 7 inch headlight and headlight bracket to go on, and am working out my options to install LED indicators to clean up the front end. I know the purists won't like me but I'm looking to modernise the bike in several areas. I will have some work to do on the wiring first though as some of the PO's have made a mess and their standard's are concerning to say the least!
I'm going to have to spend some time with the wire wheels on the front fender to see what comes up however its really seen better days. It's making me feel better about my intentions to potentially take a grinder to it to chop it down and simplify the front end.
IMG_8272 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr
My new Avon Road Rider Mk2 tyres have also turned up, there was no way the 18 year old tyres were being left so new inner tubes and rim tape are sitting at the ready. I just need to work out whether these are something I can install myself with some tyre irons? I've gone for a 3.25 - 19 for the front and 4 - 18 for the rear which seemed fairly close to stock given the available compound choices.
IMG_8301 by Mark Woodrow, on Flickr
Equally is there any advice around wheel bearings on these bikes? should I be able to recycle whats there or is it best to just replace?
A guy from the farm I'm working on also kindly lent me a compression tester so I've now done that this weekend with the following results (cold test as the carbs are removed)
Cylinder 1 - 120psi
Cylinder 2 - 115psi
Cylinder 3 - 127psi
Cylinder 4 - 125psi
Noting the low figure on Cylinder two this evening I did a further wet test having dropped in a few drops of oil to see what happened and it jumped up to about 128psi so it looks like I have some wear to the rings on Cylinder two if I'm correct? Anything to be worried about at this stage?
I fully intend to conduct an Italian tune up once I've got the bike back on the road just to try and clear everything up and see how its really running but sadly that's still quite a way off yet...
More to follow soon I hope!
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