SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB350/400
Clutch pull still very hard...
K2-K6:
I've often made the end nipples from genuine brass wood screw shanks (you have to be careful using them types of word ;D)
Just get the right size outside barrel dimensions and you can drill and file to shape before soldering. It's easier soldering to clean brass as well.
mattsz:
--- Quote from: billywingnut on July 03, 2020, 06:06:26 PM ---I take it that you have examined the clutch basket and springs, on my rebuild there was deep grooves in the fingers of the clutch basket that made the action difficult, I obtained a used replacement that has helped. Assuming all adjustments are correct, have you got the correct springs, have you measured them. Also, I route the cable through an eyelett as per the routing guide it didn't have one when I bought the bike.
--- End quote ---
So I don't have a clutch nut removal tool - I'll either have to buy or make one. But I removed the springs and found that all the plates slide freely in and out a few mm... does this tell you anything about whether there might be grooves tightening things up further in when I actuate the clutch lever?
K2-K6:
The plates only have to move literally less than 0.5mm each to effect a release, sounds ok to me.
The most movement is at the first clamp plate that the springs enact upon as that has to move to give the total cumulative distance for the clutch pack to rotate freely.
I feel notches generally give problems with drive takup as opposed to lever operation, as if a single plate "hangs" a bit on a notch, it first makes it slip, followed by the clutch grabbing faster as it pings off its resistance to fully close. Not convinced this will make it heavy to use.
mattsz:
--- Quote from: K2-K6 on July 18, 2020, 01:38:10 PM ---The plates only have to move literally less than 0.5mm each to effect a release, sounds ok to me.
The most movement is at the first clamp plate that the springs enact upon as that has to move to give the total cumulative distance for the clutch pack to rotate freely.
I feel notches generally give problems with drive takup as opposed to lever operation, as if a single plate "hangs" a bit on a notch, it first makes it slip, followed by the clutch grabbing faster as it pings off its resistance to fully close. Not convinced this will make it heavy to use.
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Thanks! I'm just going to oil up all the inner release workings and put it back together for now. Hopefully when it runs and the oil circulates after a few years of sitting, things will loosen up.
I've got a new clutch cover gasket on the way - the old one shredded to random pieces which stuck like glue to both sealing faces (no adhesive actually used, I don't think). Cleaning off the engine face was just awful, very difficult to get in some of those tight spots and scrape off. I wonder if trying to saturate the remnants with some sort of solvent would have helped?
I'll be lightly greasing the replacement gasket so that doesn't happen again...
robvangulik:
--- Quote ---So I don't have a clutch nut removal tool - I'll either have to buy or make one
--- End quote ---
That's very easy to make...
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