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My CB550 K3 Restore Project
heli_madken:
Thanks Johnwebley, I must admit I am pleased with how its coming together quite a transformation from how the bike was last February.
Concentrated on the electrics over the past couple of days, painted and fitted the clocks -
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Then worked on the main electrics distribution board. I fitted an Electrex World Reg/Rec, also used their sub loom which was well worth having together with a main loom from DSS. With a newly painted mounting plate it looks quite neat -
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A far cry from how it looked originally -
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So the big moment came and I turned the key. Surprisingly I got a neutral and oil light and everything that is fitted worked first time! could not believe it.
Next big moment was hitting the starter (no plugs fitted) and the motor spun over lovely with no nasty noises.
BUT! after around 20 seconds of running on the starter I am not getting an extinguishing oil light. Is this normal?
I have a little more work to do on the rear wheel then I can get the exhausts on and hopefully over the weekend have a go at getting her started, any tips on the initial start sequence?
Nurse Julie:
Looking great. 20 seconds is a very long for an oil light to go out, or not in your case. 🤔
Johnwebley:
Check the oil level.
It needs to fill the filter and all the feeds.
At least it's spinning over nicely
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Johnny4428:
I ended up having to remove oil pressure switch filling pump through oil pressure switch hole, replacing pressure switch and oil pressure came up quickly. Shouldn’t have to but worked for me.
Laverda Dave:
--- Quote from: heli_madken on December 30, 2020, 04:21:36 PM ---
--- Quote from: Laverda Dave on December 28, 2020, 08:13:11 PM ---What polishing set-up do you have? After 11 months I've just about given up with my polisher/chromer and looking to do the polishing myself. Do you use a custom polisher, what HP motor? What size mops as I imagine getting into the ribs of the brake plate and hub requires a small mop?
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Thanks for your comment. I use a combination of several power tools and hand sanding. I have an old Clarke bench grinder which is only 210W so only just up to the job of running 6" polishing mops (should be over 300W) so I take it easy. I also use 3" mops for smaller items or hard to get to bits as well. The mops are just from ebay together with various compounds nothing special.
I also use a dremel with a flexi-drive and small polishing bits like these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120PCS-FELT-POLISHING-BUFFING-PADS-WHEEL-WOOL-PLASTIC-DREMEL-ROTARY-TOOL-KIT-SET/313191575497?hash=item48ebac2fc9:g:a0QAAOSwrk5fP5aB which are great used with Solvol Autosol to get into the ribs on the hubs.
I use one of these which is a great piece of kit - https://www.hobbies.co.uk/tools/power-tools/proxxon-angle-polisher-wpe?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaignid=6727975578&utm_campaign=Shopping-Research_Campaign&utm_term=&adid=388174523725&addisttype=gpla&matchtype=&gclid=CjwKCAiA57D_BRAZEiwAZcfCxVkDmPh6TMMk9kFwAJ1mRBgTVWGEfrsukRa5JnzKuvlM8PwmPv-kpBoC5A8QAvD_BwE not tremendously powerful but great for getting into tight places.
To be fair to your polisher not all bits polish up too well even after a lot of work, not too sure why perhaps the quality of the casting or the aluminium.
For badly damaged parts I start with 240 grit wet and dry used wet in soapy water, I use Mirka abrasives which are great to use and last well. I then go through 400 to 800 grit before starting to polish with a sisal wheel and the brown polishing compound. Follow up with a hard stitched wheel and blue compound then a loose fold wheel and Autosol. No real trick or science to it just perseverance!
Great, thanks for the advice. It looks like I'm going to be in the garage with some mops for a while ::). The rims on the Z400J project are pretty rough on the edges, the centre section of the rims are painted and I dont want to take it off if I can help it so likely to go the wet and dry method first and slowly build up to a small dremmel sized polisher.
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