SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB350/400
Stanley Light bulb..
K2-K6:
--- Quote from: florence on August 11, 2020, 09:31:09 AM ---
--- Quote from: mike the bike on August 11, 2020, 07:56:37 AM ---You also need to uprate the main fuse to 20A, otherwise it'll blow with the headlamp on, braking and signalling at the same time, unless you use a relay.
--- End quote ---
That is excellent advice, it has just made me realise why my 15A blows every now and then, I have an H4 bulb in my 500/4. Recently, due to a corroded reflector shell I have been running an old sealed beam car headlamp and the 15A fuse hasn't blown. Thank you so much, dip beam has now gone on my lamp and just about to change to a Land Rover H4 headlamp so will upgrade the fuse at the same time.
--- End quote ---
Important distinction here, it's the loom and it's capacity relative to the item that's being supplied that causes resistance to overwhelm the fuse.
Changing the fuse won't fix it, changing the wire or making ABSOLUTELY sure all the fitments are up to handling the load will avoid the need to change the fuse.
Lifting fuse capacity just starts to make the wire take on the role of a fuse :D
ka-ja:
Don't forget the charging system's condition and ability to power everything that can be switched on
taysidedragon:
I run a 55/60w H4 bulb in my 400f headlight and use an led rearlight which is only about 1w draw. They work fine on the 15A fuse, no problems at all.
If you're using the original rear light you could fit an led tailight/stop bulb to reduce the power draw.
K2-K6:
You could use an adapter Simon to get an alternative into your original fit bayonet.
https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/p45t-r2-h5-to-p43t-h4-bulb-adapter just for illustration as there seem to be many suppliers offering similar.
As far as I know p45 and h4 lamps are identical fit for loom plug, so no mods needed to try h4 apart from the adapting ring.
K2-K6:
Or straight to led, if they would fit in the headlight shell.
https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/latest-led-headlights-p45t
They can be either "traditional" light temp, so making a reasonable match to halogen lamps at 3 / 4000 kelvin. Or 6000k if you don't object to the much more blue light output on a classic bike.
These look more competent than some of the type floating around the internet.
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