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OAP Ted's CB400F2 rebuild - engine not run for about 12 years.
McCabe-Thiele (Ted):
So this morning as Wendy was working a double shift to book Covid19 jabs at the surgury I decided to look at doing some light easy jobs prior to engine removal. Safe in the knowledge that I would not be "found out" I decided to start with undoing the cylinder head bolts.
I had wories about super tight bolts etc so began loosening in sequence as per my manual - to my surprise they have all come undone without any issues. I haven't looked up the normal torque settings but most of them were around 10-15 lb ft maximum some were almost finger tight it was that easy.
As I have no plans so far to split the engine case just remove the head & cylinder bores am wondering if it's best to tie up the cam chain and replace it when rebuilding as I am fearful that if I take the cam chain off completely now feeding in a new one will be impossible.
This is all a bit unknown as I might have to split the casing to replace the drive chain eventually anyway. Any advice is welcome.
K2-K6:
As you suspect, chain is endless so needing to split cases to slide a new one onto crank is unavoidable.
It's very low risk if you drop the chain inside, just don't rotate the crankshaft until you've fished it out again.
Retiming is easy on these, with the top off the rockers are removed making no interference with valves and pistons possible. You can rotate the crank and camshaft till the cows come home to check you've got it set right. Only then do you put the rockers in their cover back on to "activate" the valves.
Worthwhile checking with the cam cover off for chain wear though. Give it a lift at higher most point to see if the links lift away from the sprocket. It should have very little slack at that point.
McCabe-Thiele (Ted):
--- Quote from: K2-K6 on February 03, 2021, 01:19:21 PM ---As you suspect, chain is endless so needing to split cases to slide a new one onto crank is unavoidable.
It's very low risk if you drop the chain inside, just don't rotate the crankshaft until you've fished it out again.
Retiming is easy on these, with the top off the rockers are removed making no interference with valves and pistons possible. You can rotate the crank and camshaft till the cows come home to check you've got it set right. Only then do you put the rockers in their cover back on to "activate" the valves.
Worthwhile checking with the cam cover off for chain wear though. Give it a lift at higher most point to see if the links lift away from the sprocket. It should have very little slack at that point.
--- End quote ---
My bike purchase came with a new timing chain supplied but it has a link so was thinking I could remove a link on the old chain then feed it through attaching the new chain ?
Maybee folk are against a split chain ?
taysidedragon:
Lots of people use the split chain for convenience. The disadvantages are not being as secure as an endless chain and not able to check the cam chain tensioner operation.
If the primary chain has never been changed it probably needs doing now.
McCabe-Thiele (Ted):
--- Quote from: taysidedragon on February 03, 2021, 03:30:21 PM ---Lots of people use the split chain for convenience. The disadvantages are not being as secure as an endless chain and not able to check the cam chain tensioner operation.
If the primary chain has never been changed it probably needs doing now.
--- End quote ---
It's done around 32k miles I'm guessing the drive chain is original.
Don't understand why checking the cam chain tensioner operation is an issue with a split chain ?
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