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1977 400F2 first restore project

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robvangulik:
I agree with Nurse Julie, if the front feels bouncy it needs some more attention!

McCabe-Thiele (Ted):

--- Quote from: smoothoperator on November 05, 2020, 06:07:31 PM ---Red Letter Day. Engine started after just 3 attempts. Soon warms up and choke reduced then off after a very short time. So far so good. After running for a couple of minutes revs' started to rise up to 3000. Switch off, try again, same issue. Start think that the helmet laying on the floor ready is hopelessly optimistic. I did have the bike running a month ago and hadn't touched anything that would directly affect things. Head scratch and start thinking well here's the first sign that I'm going to have to get serious with the carb's and then thought let's try the idle screw and holy moly a less than a quarter turn and the tick over settled down fine. Helmet on let's go. Tried the brakes and wow the back one locks the wheel easily on our recently resurfaced street. Just as well because the front brake is, struggling for the right words, ineffective, hopeless, only for the brave etc. Anyway brakes tested and onto the main road with no dramas, rode through all the gears up and down, kept the rev's below 5000. Front end somewhat bouncy but overall one of those smile on your face moments. Checked the voltage on my return and it was giving 14.5v at about 1500  - 2000 rpm. Relax for a bit and chew on what to do next. Remember to turn petrol tap off. Have been reading engine full of fuel and seized up thread. I'll just go and check that tap is still off.

Back from the road test, oil catcher at the ready.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/bJrerK3GnwM7fq7U7

--- End quote ---

Pleased for you I've only reached the engine running stage so far.
Out of interest have you fitted a small clear plastic inline fuel filter?
I fitted a small one with a 90 deg outlet - it serves two purposes
1) To filter the fuel to protect my carb jets etc.
2) To act as a visible window for fuel flow especially when the tap is in the off position.

So far it seems to work well you can see the fuel level in the plastic bowl start to partially fill up when you turn on the tap. When switching off the engine I turn off the fuel for about 5 seconds before I switch off, this drops the level slightly so I can see any seepage past the fuel  tap. It least that my hope!
fuel filter top right by Teddy Bagshaw, on Flickr

smoothoperator:
Thanks Ted. I haven't installed an inline filter. I did fit a new filter in the tank as it was part of the service kit from DS as the tap was leaking. I think you did the same? So far the tap is leak free and it turns fine. I did fit the 2 O rings as recommended by DS. So the list of what I have done so far is:
Fix leaking fuel tap
Evaporust treat the tank
Fit a new battery
Get the front brake "working", more to do there
Replace the broken clutch case with a second hand one
Install replacement clutch actuator thrust bearings
Get the indicators working, they have since stopped so more to there also!
Go for a test ride

I'd like to go for another test ride to get more of a feel for how the the bike is running before starting to take it to bits, so priorities now are, improve front brake, new pads and adjust the gap between the floating pad and the disc, something I haven't got my head around yet. Get the indicators working again. Fit a mirror on the rhs will means tapping out the master cylinder mirror stem hole. If I fudge that up then I'll probably buy the DS Master Cylinder which is cheap. I'm pretty sure both mirrors are original however the right hand one is missing most of it's thread, it was in the MC. It's a shame as the left hand one is in amazing condition for something so old.

McCabe-Thiele (Ted):
I'm also toying with the idea of a ride before strip down unfortunately I have no headlamp or mudguards fitted......
mmmmmm

smoothoperator:
Do it. Avoid nightfall and mud. Have a mirror though as you'll need to look out for the rozzers.

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