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Next Question! 500 Sprocket Carrier

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philward:
I have got the the bearing retainer out Lobo - its the alloy carrier that is stuck to the hub. There is no movement - it is solid to the hub, normally there is slight movement on the rubber cush drive rubbers (even if stuck on the rubbers).
I am beginning to agree with you ref replacing parts for the sake of it - all my rebuilds have been (in the main) replace anything that can wear - ie, I'm waiting for a DS order for all the the wheel/frame consumerables but when I got rear wheel bearings out, they are good - if I had had trouble with the bearing retainer removal, I would have cursed for doing it. Front wheel bearings seem good so I will keep the new bearings for the front wheel and fit if I need them. This approach will not apply to stuff that deteriates over time like rubber parts and engine parts that whould create major issues if they fail.

Trigger:
It is not in your service schedule and that is why yours was damaged. Any lip on the bush will start to wear out the surface of the hub that it comes in contact with  ::)

K2-K6:

--- Quote from: philward on October 24, 2020, 09:25:32 AM ---Great explanation and advice everybody - I always change cush drive rubbers normally (which is why I was trying to get sprocket carrier off). Now I have to figure out how to get it off!
If the seizure is between the inner vertical face of the sprocket carrier and the hub centre (where the cush drive rubber nipples stick through into the brake area)? Is that where I should apply heat?
K2-K6 - no, unfortunately I haven't got access to a slide hammer but will make some kind of jig

--- End quote ---

There's a possibility that a local motor factor shop has a loan one,  I've only borrowed such when needed as they do make something like this fairly easy and less "traumatic" for the structure. 

It's only pulling in the correct direction and you can use small tapping to get it free, so no leverage onto any other part.

philward:

--- Quote from: philward on October 24, 2020, 09:25:32 AM ---Great explanation and advice everybody - I always change cush drive rubbers normally (which is why I was trying to get sprocket carrier off). Now I have to figure out how to get it off!
If the seizure is between the inner vertical face of the sprocket carrier and the hub centre (where the cush drive rubber nipples stick through into the brake area)? Is that where I should apply heat?
K2-K6 - no, unfortunately I haven't got access to a slide hammer but will make some kind of jig

--- End quote ---

Just looled at schematics and see now the area of seizure and hence where to apply the heat.
Ironically (and don't shout at me!) I think I threw a spocket carrier away (I think, as I can't find it in the shed) that may have been off a 500 - as I built the CR750 Rep from parts and bought a sprocket carrier that by the time I got round to fitting it, realised it wasn't for a 750 but didn't know what bike it was for - was kicking around for years in the shed and got naffed of with all the mess in the shed so sold and binned loads of parts last year - hindsight!

deltarider:
At risked being called a blasphemist, but... if mine were stuck, hm, I might leave it as it is. Surely, I'll miss some (minor) damping, but aren't there a lot of bikes out there, that lack this damping there altogether? I mean, look it from the bright side: your rear wheel will be a lot easier to balance dynamically than standard (practically impossible). Never understood why Honda designed it this way. Has the same design been applied on other Honda's?

--- Quote ---Ironically (and don't shout at me!) I think I threw a spocket carrier away
--- End quote ---
I know the feeling, Philward. When I moved house in '85, I had the rear grab rail (PN 84101-323-671) in my hand thinking: will I ever need this again now that I have replaced it by a luggage carrier since long and so I have abandoned the grab rail. Now I want one again, because the bike looks sooooo much better with it (see Erny's bike). A repro will set me back some € 120,-.  :-[

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