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Kill Switch 400/4

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smoothoperator:
Thanks for this Simon, some very useful information. Wiring issues often result in a can of worms opening up and it's clear I need to really dig into this issue. My plan is to completely strip the bike so currently I'm trying to fix what issues I can rather than face them during the rebuild. That said I might end up with a new loom, new left hand switch, new right hand switch etc so with that in mind I'll go as far as I can with this but if it beats me then I'll take a new tack. For example let's say I buy new handlebar switch gear I would be looking at the problem in a different way, e.g. where is the wire in the loom that I fit this wire from the switch to. Got a free day today so I'll be giving it a good look. By the way the reason I might buy a new r/h switch is because it looks like I need a new left hand one and aesthetically I would want them to match. They aren't stupidly expensive either.

Lobo:
Agreed. Often it can be a false economy to patch things that are worn out, and wiring issues especially, are notoriously difficult to fettle on a roadside.
Peace of mind is often underrated!
Good luck...

smoothoperator:
Disconnected both handlebar looms, removed "the bag", cleaned wires so things are clearer. Added 3 images. The first shows that the b/w from r/h switch went into a grey that connects to NOTHING. Another black connects to NOTHING. Also the thin white white wire went to NOTHING. At this point I take a mental decision to buy new l/h and r/h switch, so focus now on planning for this. With that in mind, the r/h switch loom has 7 wires, 6 male and 1 female, b/w. The main loom into which these connect are all female. The l/h switch wires all male. So the odd one out is the b/w. Presumably new switch wires will be the same, leaving me with just one issue, understanding why the b/w is female in both cases?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/AvCtaW7HwqH5YLcx6

smoothoperator:

--- Quote from: Oddjob on November 11, 2020, 01:01:16 PM ---Just studied the pics, it looks like the PO has removed the kill switch from the wiring as Lobo suspected. For some reason the last pic where you’ve removed all the wires from the loom you’ve left a male black/white wire still connected to a black female. Honda and most other manufacturers used plastic sleeving to cover all wires which held power, these were normally female. So you could disconnect these wires and they wouldn’t short on the frame blowing a fuse. All wires which tapped into this power were uninsulated except for a small covering where the connector was attached to the wire. So if it’s bare it’s usually dead. Now the right hand switch has a covered black/white as when the male blacks are connected it feeds the kill switch, with the switch on power comes back down the black/white hence the insulation. This should connect to the male black/white you can see in the last pic connected to the black, this goes into the loom and comes out again near the coils as a twin female, this feeds the coils, so kill switch off and no power down the black/white so no power to coils, engine stops.

Sorry if this sounds a repeat of some of the advice already given but it explains why Honda did things like this

--- End quote ---

Thanks, all observations welcome on this one. In the image where I'm wearing a glove, I left the male wire attached to the female b/w just to show how in fact it lead to nowhere. In the next image I have removed it. I still can't see how I connect the female from the switch to the female of the loom without a male to male piece for example. When I install a new handlebar switch, that is. All connections to the left handlebar switch I "get". You can see on images of new handlebar switches, they have the one b/w insulated female connector.

smoothoperator:
Yes, just to pint out that is where I found the wire it's not my doing! You've really helped me by focusing on this so thanks again. Looking at the wiring diagram posted by Lobo, I can see that the b/w wire in question should go directly to the female b/w wire from the handlebar switch. It's probably been put where it is to bypass the kill switch and provide a voltage to the coils regardless of kill switch position.

It has also occurred to me that the clever little wiring diagram shows the gender of the termination, triangle for male and rectangle for female. Also where rectangles are joined to each other, then that signifies a double connector.

Searching for both l/h and r/h switches, DS copies look favourite so far.

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