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Wots goin’ on here pls folks?

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Lobo:
Thanks Moorey - tho’ the engine new to me and I’ve no idea of it’s history. From the localised blocked jacket cooling (exactly where the piston rings seized) and the fact that all else looks good internally (ie bearings / surfaces, piston skirts / crowns etc) I reckon the T2 oil delivery was likely not the issue.
I will however likely go 50:1 once I get it running...
Cheers.

K2-K6:
"Appreciate the comments Nigel, will do as you suggest, and yes, I can just buy the standard rings. Should I leave the liner scoring as-is, or risk making the bore out-of-round by dressing said scoring out?"

If you can clean off the baked carbon/burnt oil then leave the surface as is. It's of course nowhere near perfect, but with rings free and cooling working it should be better than first appearance appearance would suggest.

Moorey:

  The reason I asked about the type of oil which I notice you didn't actually answer is using non marine oil makes water cooled outboards
 prone to seizing on the top ring.

Lobo:
Hi again Moorey.  I couldn’t answer you type of oil as I’ve not bought any yet - the engine is new to me, as is the 20L tank of fuel mix it came with... which is what I’ve been starting it on.

I will indeed use marine grade 2T when the time comes. (I always thought Marine 2T was about the biodegradability aspect tbh!)

Nige, have ordered a complete piston set off eBay from Singapore at < £30 landed which I’m happy with - should be here in a week or so.

As per your suggestion sanded down the various faces this arvo & pleased with the results. Thanks.

Latest pics of the block - I’m still stymied at the threaded boss within the water jacket - I can’t imagine what kind of ‘thing’ it may fasten. Certainly exploded diagrams of the block don’t show / indicate anything. The head gasket covers it all up, further mystifying the query.

Ken - you might be right that the bodge was in lieu of a chipped pot... it is actually quite extensive. I scratching my head tho’ at how any PO might have been alerted to a (presumed) gas / water leak as outboards naturally eject (cooling) water out of the exhaust - let alone everywhere else. (Ie the leg & tell tale stream)

Thanks gents...

K2-K6:
Certainly looks better now cleaned a little, nice work.

You always have that dilemma when trying to recover things like this as to just how much metal you can remove.  It's just about there regarding getting a decent surface to seal with the gasket.  I'd use blue Hylomar on both the metal and the gasket, coated and let them dry for 30 mins before assembly to propagate the best conditions for a competent seal with it.

Interesting point on the marine oil Moorey, like Simon I knew they used specific oil,  but not the intricacy of why.

Thinking about it today, and was wondering if it could have had a sacrificial anode in that location within the water jacket to prevent the aluminium being eaten? Can find them like this https://www.anodeoutlet.co.uk/product/00831-tecnoseal-zinc-cylinder-head-anode-826887-for-mercury-mercruiser-outboard/ and looks a possibility in terms of what other's implement.

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