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500 Start Up Issues

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philward:
It was the battery slightly low (hence not working with high current draw - plugs in and higher compression/load on the solenoid/battery.) The issue is the direct short when the solenoid switches - which points to what Ken suggests - but the baffling things is why this didn't happen when the motor spun without plugs in? (a short is a short?)

philward:
Julie, I have made new positive cable (crimp and solder) - I used the original earth strap but put new frame end terminal on but didn't change battery end as couldn't get a connector that would go through the right angle - will make a new complete cable up
Think I've done a continuity check on that coil area earth Ken (cleaned paint off) but will re-check
Should I have that permaent earth on the starter cable? (as to non electrician, the starter solenoid switching a live onto an earth doesn't make sense - unless it 'shunts' earth polarity to the one side of motor)
And why would above issues 'short' the battery to show zero?
No battery at mo as trying to recover - don't want to risk using my 750's Motobatt incase I nacker that one - so can't check motor temp - but zero's battery before motor able to spin (motor never spun under load)

K2-K6:
"Should I have that permaent earth on the starter cable? (as to non electrician, the starter solenoid switching a live onto an earth doesn't make sense - unless it 'shunts' earth polarity to the one side of motor)"

That doesn't seem right at all. With no battery at all connected you shouldn't be able to meter continuity via main starter lead positive to any earth.

K2-K6:
Forgot to add, as Ken suggested it looks like the starter motor is failing in some way. I'd look at that firstly, the car battery would probably have enough grunt and size to melt something if there's failure, that's in comparison to the bike battery.

K2-K6:
You could use the 750 as reference.

Meter for continuity down the positive starter lead across  to earth to give yourself reality check on numbers. 

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