SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB350/400
Adjusting points/contact breakers driving me insane!
billdn:
--- Quote from: robvangulik on April 24, 2021, 08:10:28 PM ---#4 is superfluous, skip that and turn plate until light comes on at the F mark.
--- End quote ---
Thought it was making me chase my tail in ever decreasing circles!
billdn:
--- Quote from: Bryanj on April 24, 2021, 08:26:56 PM ---First ONLY use the 22mm nut if you have the plugs removed or you will deform the peg and/or shear the bolt holding the auto advance on.
Second new points have a preservative on the surfaces that need cleaning off
Third you should NOT get a spark at the points, only the plugs
Yes it is a barsteward getting both the points gap correct and the timing spot on and thats even when youdo it regularly!!
If you can make the points plate a less "sloppy" fit in the crankcase it will be easier. Apart from that just patience and perseverance
--- End quote ---
Thanks Bryan, for some reason I took the plugs out just it because it was easier, dodged a bullet there!
Have cleaned the points with meths, as read that on other posts when I was looking this up.
From this it seems that while the contact breakers and advance/retard work together ultimately - the setting of points gap and setting the "F" mark with the light are in fact separate actions.
I'll persevere , I've patience a plenty- I'm married!
Bryanj:
The trick is get the gap exact then dont undo the plate screws too much but i bet the gap will alter when you rotate plate!!!
Take your time to get both perfect and in the future when servicing you will be able to set the gap by making the bulb light on the f mark as the only thing that actually wears is the fibre heel on the points.
JezzaPeach:
Make sure you’re not putting the croc clip on the small bolt thread as opposed to the metal on the wire itself - like I did once. ::)
PS the gap makes a big difference to the timing position and I thought my plate was beyond adjustment until I tweaked that a bit.
billdn:
--- Quote from: Bryanj on April 25, 2021, 09:13:05 AM ---The trick is get the gap exact then dont undo the plate screws too much but i bet the gap will alter when you rotate plate!!!
Take your time to get both perfect and in the future when servicing you will be able to set the gap by making the bulb light on the f mark as the only thing that actually wears is the fibre heel on the points.
--- End quote ---
Well a couple of days pass and I've been diligently trying to little or no avail, apart from a few pops and bangs.
Bryan you mentioned about making sure backing plate seated well, what did you mean? Spacer/washer behind perhaps?
I have noticed that I can get the light to come on the F mark on 1-4 and 2-3 but when tightening screws up on advance/retard plates it goes out sometimes but a careful giggle can get it to stay on. I believe the F mark position is correct as I can hear a click in the respective coil at the same time.
Plug gap set, btw Clymer says 7-8mm not 0.7-0.8mm!!
When it fires I get a bit of blow back through the carbs and out of the air filter box (filter out as I used a small squirt of Easy-Start!) and the throttle grip twitches with some of the backfires.
Should I use full choke or part choke?
Good spark on all plugs too.
This is a fully rebuilt engine from scratch with new rings/pistons/ rebore etc and skimmed head. New points and point plate assembly too.
Would incorrect tappets setting give a problem also.
Any ideas to try for me?
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version