SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB350/400

CAUTION with sizing your shell bearings on Crank - don't go too tight.

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royhall:
The only refacing you can do on your crank is micro polishing. No regrinds are possible.

400 Cafe Racer:
Hi Roy,

Thanks for your input. Yes, from the other posts I have read I understand that a crank grind is not possible. By "refacing" I meant carrying out any fine polishing evenly around the 3 journals, that would be after detailed close up examination and measuring for any possibility of uneven wear or ovality.

Thanks  ;)

Dennis

MCTID:
Ref: Hondabond. Just looking at the threaded holes on a Triumph Crankcase to decide whether they will take the screws holding the Primary Chaincase Cover or not. They won't, and two screws were broken off inside the blind threaded holes. Out with the grinder as it was impossible to extract the broken screws. Got a fair way down and I was able to remove the remains of both broken screws.......so I can salvage the cases by welding them back up and re-tapping the holes. The reason the screws had broken is that each hole had a goodly dollop of 'Hondabond' bunging up the bottom of each blind hole and as the screws couldn't be tightened any further because of the 'pistoning' effect, the Orangutan PO had given them a bit more welly and they had snapped off. FFS.

Some monkeys shouldn't progress from peeling bananas and scratching their arses in public just so that little Kids can have a good laugh.

McCabe-Thiele (Ted):
Imho looking at your shells I can't see them being the cause of the noise you describe - the shells do not look too bad especially if they are original and were not replaced by the PO.
I would have expected some serious 'picking up' of the bearing surfaces if they were too tight.
Maybe as you say its just lack of oil pressure that caused the rumble but even then on a 5 bearing crank that sounds somehow unlikely in my automotive experience -   its always difficult to describe & diagnose engine sounds. - except when your  big ends clatter!

It will be interesting to see what your Plastigauge check reveals in due course.

400 Cafe Racer:
Hi MCTID

I took the decision I described to Ted, which I have used for years on all sorts of gasket pastes, that is to use cellulose thinners to soften and liquidize to get it out.
Pour a little down the blind hole, let it soak for a while, thread the bolt into the casing and gently wind down, make sure you stop when you meet resistance.
At this point, imagine you are tapping a thread with a thread tap. Turn the bolt gently for a quarter turn then turn it backwards a half turn to clear it. Carry on gently with this method and you will find the dissolved gasket goo is pushed out of the top of the thread. I used this method on 4 affected threaded blind holes. They all cleared and it took me about 45 mins.


I can understand your frustrations with excess use of Hondabond. I measured the depth of the casing the bolt was clamping, then threaded the bolt into the blind hole to see when it met high resistance to turning (bottoming onto the Hondabond) it was evident that you would have the situation you described, so I would recommend the above.

Dennis

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