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Non standard headlamps and where to hide the wiring from within?

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billdn:
I'm slowly doing a cafe racer type rebuild- engine up and running! but have decided to use a twin headlamp set up instead of the original candle powered unit - but where to hide the wires that hide inside it, So 2 questions has anyone done it or got any ideas and/or would making my own loom using micro wire be a part solution- especially  to replace the headlamp wiring and switches?.
I've also changed to LED indicators so guess I'll need resistors to keep the original relay.

McCabe-Thiele (Ted):
When I had a similar issue on cars I use a small plastic box to hide the wiring in. A local shop sell various sizes with the top held on with four corner screws. I drill entry and exit holes using a rubber grommet to keep excess water out. As its a neat plastic box you can then fit it in a suitable place. I've epoxy resined a small plastic bracket so it can be fixed in place. I've even managed to put two relays in a box when I was wiring up DTRL,'s

K2-K6:
At a cost, but certainly the Motogadget system effectively does this sort of thing.

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All electrical load handling for components is handled in unit with smaller command wires, and so more options potentially to relocate this somewhere discrete.

Or the concept at least could be partly mimicked to build yourself something suitable.

McCabe-Thiele (Ted):
Neat looking gadget but you can't exactly hide the connections unless it has a screw on lid. My boxes cost a couple of quid in white or black. You can get them in alloy as well but more expensive. Available in several sizes.

I wonder is it fused - it has the look of the SAM units (Signal Aquistion Modules) that MB use on their cars.

K2-K6:
Yrs Ted, the connection looks vulnerable to me too for bike use if you're going out in the wet

Posted because they've been used by others on forum for cafe type modified bikes previously,  it gives some idea if nothing else.

The OP problem is really just the mass of wires from connection of original fit "modules" that they have hidden in headlight shells as convenient space previously. 
In reality, only a few wires are needed if a design exercise is taken to replace rather than adapting original switch systems. There's only one positve needed if you can control locally with small relay for main, dip, side plus indication that's located there.

"it has the look of the SAM units (Signal Aquistion Modules) that MB use on their cars." That's probably their version, or description, of canbus in which they send just a single positive supply to each area (like a ring main) and then command the components by pinging code from central ECU to call status on or off. 
Also similar to ethernet over powerline data systems used in domestic router distribution.

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