SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB500/550
Wont exceed 4,500 rpm then stalls and wont restart - on route to MOT
totty:
The tank had 2L of old petrol in it when I bought it, that was replaced by 5L of fresh before riding it. I've removed the tap and found that the plastic strainer is missing which further increases the chance of dirt getting in. (any idea where I can get one of these at a decent price?)
I don't really have anything to gauge the temp against, overheating was assumed as it felt/smelt very hot and started easily once it cooled down. "8 stroking" would describe how it ran for the final few seconds before it stalled and refused to restart.
On the way home the bogging still occurred in but felt less harsh, more like a restriction. It idled fine and restarted easily when home.
So far for the oil pressure light all I've tested is the bulb and it was not the cause. I'll check for oil reaching the top end as advised and then look at the wiring. I also intend to drop the sump and clean the strainer.
The points had just been replaced so slippage may well be the cause, I've got the cover off and the tools next to it but work has been stopping me from getting any further with it.
Cheers
Allan
totty:
Oil is reaching the top end, although I've got no idea of how much oil to expect.
The static timing is still spot on so the points can't of slipped.
I couldn't do much else by torch light.
Any idea how your supposed to get the front lower bolt out of the sprocket/pump cover to get to the oil pressure switch? There isn't enough clearance around it to get a spanner or socket on it. I've also found that the gear selector seal is leaking so I'll do that while I'm on.
florence:
On mine there are screws not bolts holding the cover on. Sometimes people put a bolt in if the screw is lost/broken. However, if one does, it needs a washer so that it protrudes enough to get a socket on.
If oil is getting up to the top I am sure it is fine, and if the timing is right, I would investigate the dirty petrol theory. I have in-line filters on mine. They are really cheap to buy and keep all the grime from my tank away from the carbs. Before I installed filters I was stripping the carbs all the time which is a really boring job and they are a pain to get on and off.
Is your bike a 550 or a 500?
totty:
The cover on mine has 2 allen key bolts and two normal hex headed bolts. I'm going to try and buy a box spanner or/or thinwall socket at lunchtime to shift the problem one, if they don't fit I might have to drill the head off.
If it's 6mm hose then think I have a spare filter lying around that I could use. I'd like to also replace the strainer in the tank to try and keep the grime out of the tap.
I certainly don't want to frequently remove the carbs, I had a right battle with them to get them back on last time.
The road tax arrived today so at least testing it wont be a problem ;D
It's a 550.
Cheers
Allan
EDIT - The bolt is now out, had to grind a box spanner down to paper thin walls.
totty:
I've just had it out for a test ride and it still wont rev >:(
The fuel flow looked good when I removed the pipe. I'm still running on reserve though as I don't want to fill the tank until I've got a new strainer for the tap.
No fuel filter is fitted (yet).
Cap breather is clear.
Carb rubbers look fine.
I forgot to check the exhaust so I'll have to go back to that.
Points gap and static timing are both spot on.
I'm yet to try the strobe, maybe it's not advancing???
The oil warning light switch is faulty, doesn't earth even when not running. Oil did reach the head when tested.
After adding another 5L of petrol I can now coax it up to 7,000rpm. I can also now clearly feel that anything over 1/4 throttle causes the bogging, it looks like I'm going to have to take the carbs off to clean the mains and emulsion tubes and set the float heights.
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