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Cam tensioner panic attack !

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400 Cafe Racer:

--- Quote from: Bryanj on October 06, 2021, 03:04:28 PM ---The rod does not move much for the blade to adjust quite a bit Ted

--- End quote ---

Hi Ted,

Just started mine up Saturday after the rebuild. As others have said, with the new chain there is virtually no slack to take up when the tensioner bolt is released.  I did double check mine after sorting out smooth idling on a warm engine,
1. by marking with a dab of paint where the head of the lock bolt is when "locked",
2. then releasing the lock with the engine idling, to let it settle and adjust itself,
3. then relocking the bolt to the painted mark (so you don't screw it in too far to bend the arm)
4. then finally tightening the locknut gently to lock the tensioner bolt.

I'm sure you will be fine, just a few deep breaths and carry on mate. ;) :) :)

Dennis

McCabe-Thiele (Ted):

--- Quote from: Sesman on October 06, 2021, 07:16:44 PM ---Hi, Ted. I had the same heart stopping moment with my 550. New chain and new tensioner. I released the bolt and the bugger didn’t move. All is well though…phew.

How’s the build going?

--- End quote ---

Generally it's all going well thanks - it never dawned on me that new cam chain, new tensioner blades & the adjustment would be pretty minimal in terms of bolt adjustment movement.
Great to hear that its a shared experience. I was well stressed / panic mode /sleepless night   - not what I need at my age.lol

At present I've just painted the filter housing complete with one damaged fin - then after oven bake I can attach to the engine & fill with oil before I adjust the tappets. I like the idea of oil everywhere when I do the tappet adjustments - I shall be putting the new oil in from the cam cover top to let it trickle down.
I'm presently multi tasking with new wheels from Central Wheel Componenets that need new bearings & a front wheel retainer ring also rebuilding the rear foot rests.

My thoughts are to attach the carbs, then the air box, then the filter  /battery holder before fitting the rear mudguard & wheel. I have this daft idea that it might be leasier building from the engine backwards as it was a dificult skin grazing job when |I did the initial fire up last year.

Once the above are finished I'm going to fit the wiring loom as a nice winter project. I think realistically it's going to be Feb/March before I attempt an engine start with a flexible plan to ride the bike in the spring of 2022 - all plans subject to change & set backs.

I shall sleep soundly tonight thanks to those who have replied - you know who you are.....

Sesman:
Excellent plan regarding the carbs. I did the same, but fitted them with just the rear long mounting bolt allowing me to pivot the engine forward. Care is required not to damage the down tube paint….bollocks.

I,d also ensure the filter to carb trumpets and secured first, before fully seating the carb to inter trumpets. It’s just a matter of 5mm or so, but it makes the difference….just my opinion.

Stick at it Ted.

Sesman:
Hi, Oddjob. That’s exactly what I did. I was paranoid about those oil jets. Unfortunately I hadn’t fettled the alternator case and clutch housing at the time so I had to button her up, fill, test and then drain. A right faff and a lesson in pp planning, lack of patience and over enthusiasm. All worked out ok though as the oil flooded in after a dozen kick starts and a 2 second prod. Magic.

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