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The rebirth of Lazarus

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mickwinf:
The bare rods seemed ok but will check. Interestingly, i was very careful to put the rod caps on the correct way round as per the manual, with the notch on the shell to the exhaust side of the engine and the markings on the side of the rods lined up. I removed the offending rod and re-assembled on the bench and the ends of the shells even by eye looked un even. I put it back on the engine and turned the cap round the "wrong" way, and hey presto a smooth turning rod. What do i do now, was it a fault from new? should i get another rod?

McCabe-Thiele (Ted):

--- Quote from: mickwinf on July 31, 2022, 01:41:21 PM ---The bare rods seemed ok but will check. Interestingly, i was very careful to put the rod caps on the correct way round as per the manual, with the notch on the shell to the exhaust side of the engine and the markings on the side of the rods lined up. I removed the offending rod and re-assembled on the bench and the ends of the shells even by eye looked un even. I put it back on the engine and turned the cap round the "wrong" way, and hey presto a smooth turning rod. What do i do now, was it a fault from new? should i get another rod?

--- End quote ---

IIRC my 400 has the notches on the same side that has always seemed odd to me but I went by the manual & the original fittment.

Have you Plasigauged the bearing in question?

Not sure if its a tad tight on the bearing size or you have some ovalation on the conrod. I guess accurate measurement is needed.

Oddjob:
Not sure if you've done this Mick but it's something you should know about.

Got 2 550 engines earlier this week. Both minus gearboxes and essentially just cases, cranks and primary drive. The clutches were also there but seperate as were the generators etc.

One set of cases still had the barrels on, fins chipped to hell and back, I presumed that the barrels were bonded to the cases so made plans to remove them. Couple of hefty whacks with a rubber hammer and up they popped, some wiggling (and this was them in a large crate in the back of my car) and eventually the barrels came off. Good news I thought except I now noticed that number 2 rod was seized, removed the psitons, top case off (no bolts were fitted) and turned the crank around until I could access the 2 rod bolts. Removed the nuts and split the rod, the oil gallery in the crank feeding that journal was completely blocked with solid white powder, the crank still looked ok, the shells weren't marked but they were contaminated. I got the powder out by just sliding a 3mm drill down and spinning it by hand. I can't think what caused this, it could be water ingress or condensation or something else. I may remove the ball bearings capping the internal oil galleries and running a 3.5mm drill down them or I may try and see if a bottle brush and some brake cleaner will do the trick.

So check the oil gallery opening on that journal, maybe there's a small amount of stuff just sticking up and that's catching the shell, if you've tried yellow and it's still sticking it's not a shell selection issue. Check the rod journal surface for any dents that would reduce the clearance.

Have you tried another rod on that journal?

mickwinf:
Interesting you should say that Ted, all the cars i worked on had the notches on opposite sides, but as you say honda says both pointing forward, and there are witness marks on the rods and caps, except the one in question which seems to have always been fitted the opposite way round. Ken, all the oilways were clear and i have cleaned them all again. I have fitted it with green shells now and all turns smoothly, another one tightened up when i torqued it up but fitted the yellow shells and now ok, so i will mate the crankcases and go from there.

Bryanj:
Yes the japanese apear to differ in that notches are on same side, 400 manual also says notches to front of engine but not seen anything in 500/550 manual

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