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Laverdaroo:



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Laverdaroo:



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Oddjob:
A mod I did recently on the 1300 was to fit a grease nipple onto the headstock, you can then give the head stock bearings a new bit of grease every year without having to take it too bits.

Best done before having anything powder coated though. Uses a fair amount of grease but it's not as bad as you think. Also have one on the brake lever pivot tube, main stand and both the front brake arm pivots. Also have plans to modify the side stand pivot bolt to use a grease nipple, ok it's a bit OTT but it prevents wear and keeps things working as they should.

Just an idea, you don't have to do them but at least you know BEFORE you do any painting etc.

Laverdaroo:

--- Quote from: Oddjob on August 26, 2022, 04:45:07 PM ---A mod I did recently on the 1300 was to fit a grease nipple onto the headstock, you can then give the head stock bearings a new bit of grease every year without having to take it too bits.

Best done before having anything powder coated though. Uses a fair amount of grease but it's not as bad as you think. Also have one on the brake lever pivot tube, main stand and both the front brake arm pivots. Also have plans to modify the side stand pivot bolt to use a grease nipple, ok it's a bit OTT but it prevents wear and keeps things working as they should.

Just an idea, you don't have to do them but at least you know BEFORE you do any painting etc.

--- End quote ---


Well reminded Ken, I'd forgotten that, that's going onto the list. Still waiting for that O ring that sits on the countershaft, Cant really get much together til I have it.
Kick start's in the case and Ive done as many other pre fit jobs  as I can but waiting for this.
Tonights 'Planet Rock fest' in the shed is going to be lapping the valves and putting the gubbins back in. That should keep me occupied for a bit.


Question.

Whats the best way of building these units back together?
Upside down, fitting the starter clutch and Primary chain then leave it floating in the case albeit in position, then sliding the primary shaft through it once the cases are together. Is that possible

OR

Having the primary shaft in situe in the top case and crank etc and juggling to get it together that way?

I suspect the former is preferable to the latter but is there anything I should be warry of? Especially as I have fingers like bunches of pork sausages!...... ;D

Oddjob:
Build in the top case. The problem is the gearbox, those needle roller bearings locate into 2 steel studs embedded into the top case, if you build in the bottom case you can fit the primary shaft etc BUT then you're fishing to engage the gearchange forks onto the gears and that tends to move the shafts and if you're not careful you don't get them located right and when you bolt the cases together the steel  studs get pushed right through the cases and usually break them or crack them. You'll see many examples of people doing just that on the site.

Build everything in the top case, fit the primary/camchain etc and then suspend the primary hub onto the primary chain, fit the bottom case and then threaded the primary shaft through when it's bolted together. Can be a little tricky when it's a new primary chain as it's very tight with no slack but a little leverage works wonders, just be careful where you lever against. Don't have the oil pump fitted and you can see the primary shaft coming toward you and know which way to turn it so it lines up.

Sounds harder than it is TBH.

If you fit a grease nipple onto the brake lever pivot tunnel look at the pin which goes through there, there is a small flat spot near the centre, the grease nipple should be situated so it pushes grease into that recess. File a flat spot on the tunnel where the nipple will sit and fit with a copper washer so the nipple seals and doesn't just pout out of the gap between the nipple and the tunnel. Same with the headstock and even the front brake pivot pins. Either drill 4mm and fit a 5mm nipple or 5mm and fit a 6mm nipple. You can buy stainless steel grease nipples now so no rust either.

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