SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB350/400
What is correct cable route on 400/4 clutch cable ?
400 Cafe Racer:
--- Quote from: TrickyMicky on November 16, 2021, 03:57:32 PM ---
--- Quote from: 400 Cafe Racer on November 16, 2021, 11:09:41 AM ---
--- Quote from: TrickyMicky on November 15, 2021, 10:57:42 PM ---I've got the chrome wire guide plus the so called insulated ring on top of the cambox to stop any physical contact 'twixt cable and head. Cable still needs replacing approx every two years. I think it's a case of "They all do that sir". Not ultra expensive to replace, just disconnect both ends, tie the new cable to the old one and heave! First use of a new cable is like having a new bike!
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Do you think what I have experienced could be the cause of premature failure. ??
Dennis
Yes Dennis, I think it's the price we pay for having everything all tucked away, out of sight, neat and tidy. Many years ago I owned a CB750 K2, and the clutch cable was routed down one of the front down tubes, tucked in nicely between Nos. 3 & 4 Header pipes, under the points cover, and entered the clutch housing next to the lower frame tube. For relaxation these days, I am playing with a 1966 CL160, nice long sweeps on cables, all visible, and out of harms way. The instruction book even tells you that you can oil these cables, how quaint!!! Just to finish off my rant, the ONLY piece of plastic on this machine is the rear light lens. Such is progress eh?
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The natural position now for my cable without it going through the loop is just about 1" to the right and 1/2" higher than the loop, still beneath the tank, well clear of the cambox and in free air, so much cooler.
Dennis
McCabe-Thiele (Ted):
Dennis is right if the cable is not behind the guide the natural routing is such that the missing guide is not needed as the cable is nowhere near the engine casings.
I've looked at the idea of a bracket (that I do not have) on the top breather Ken it's definitely an option as well.
TrickyMicky:
Be careful of what material you use to make the bracket. Heat will be conducted from the mounting on the engine, and the cable will very likely be in contact with the bracket. I think whichever option you choose the cable is routed through an area of high temperature. New cables are not mega expensive, and do not take very long to replace, probably quicker than changing the oil and filter, and we do that every 1,000 miles approx without a thought. Plus as I said earlier, when you use the clutch for the first time with a new cable it recreates that ancient feeling of "Oh God, that feels good!"
Nurse Julie:
If you look closely at my photos, you can see the OEM clip and how it hold the clutch cable in its natural route.
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McCabe-Thiele (Ted):
--- Quote from: TrickyMicky on November 17, 2021, 08:26:33 AM ---Be careful of what material you use to make the bracket. Heat will be conducted from the mounting on the engine, and the cable will very likely be in contact with the bracket. I think whichever option you choose the cable is routed through an area of high temperature. New cables are not mega expensive, and do not take very long to replace, probably quicker than changing the oil and filter, and we do that every 1,000 miles approx without a thought. Plus as I said earlier, when you use the clutch for the first time with a new cable it recreates that ancient feeling of "Oh God, that feels good!"
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Mmm point taken - my brain is working overtime on the idea of a simple silicone loop for going around the cable - a bit like those silicone cooking moulds you use for containing a fried egg.
It's something I need to look at with the petrol tank in place - hopefully I can do something that will not be too visible - an original bracket might be worth hunting down as you can still buy the ring that fits inside. Then again plenty of areas not on the engine to fit a bracket to - off the existing cable guide clip, horn, even the coil mounts.
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