Gear shift pivot play fix?

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I've found the dot mark on the short lever but cant find much in the way of a mark on the shaft end.
My dismantling photos are not to be relied on as the shifter might not have been in the corect position.
I've got neutral - I dont even know how the gears go !

Is it one up and five down or one down and five up?

A photo of someones lever when in neutral showing the mechanism would be helpful plus the shifter sequence please?

[allankelly1]

1 down then neutral then 5 up

As for position what ever suits your riding style

Best wishes Al


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[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

1 down then neutral then 5 up

As for position what ever suits your riding style

Best wishes Al


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Allan is pedestrian sit up and beg a recognised style? Have you got the date for your op or is it classified? Cheers Ted

[allankelly1]

Hi Ted

Possible date is in two weeks or the next avaliable date is 13 December

Let hope I still fit those rear sets and drops in the spring

Ps shifter sequence is on the outside cover


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[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Hi Ted

Ps shifter sequence is on the outside cover

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The things I never notice until someone points out the obvious - so it is Allan - I feel suitably stupid for asking!

Another issue to resolve:- Even thought the pivot bracket was nicely painted the lever rocks all over the shop on the pivot boss so either the lever is worn or it's the pivot itself.
The hole in the lever boss looked pretty good and round so I'm thinking its the pivot assembly - not available from DS.

Whats the best fix - have the shaft reduced and a sleeve fitted on top or would a machine shop make up a new pivot - sound like more expense?

.gear lever pivot by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

. Free DS advert

[taysidedragon]

Here's mine Ted. Poor chrome on mine too but you can just make out the dot on the gear shaft. Clean with white spirit and shine a good light on it to find the dot. Mark with a spot of paint if still hard to see.

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Magnifying glass has found a mark I've moved the lever one spline.

[Laverdaroo]

Evening Ted,
My lever was completely knackered after a drop by the PO and the chrome was completely gone as that side of the bike was parked up in 1981 next to an open barn window so copped the lot.

I crashed out on the £44 jobby off fleabay but even that was a bad fit and had to have the old rod re chromed and finished to make it work. Bit miffed but a perfect case of pattern part mis fit, I'd not experienced it at all on all the A/M bits I'd bought until I got this, It was nearly 20mm too long and if cut to the right size would have removed all but a 'midge's' of thread on either end which I wasn't keen on.
Reported back to them and got a discount but really annoying when on the final assembly!

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I know it's less than ideal - csml have the pivit bracket listed at over £70  with P&P. I'm thinking I could fit a couple of small O rings in the centre recess - no rattle or movement!

[Laverdaroo]

Its worth a go but how long would it stay like that after time. If I'd had a L/H thread die (correct spolling?) I would have had a go at making one but had the bits to make a good un.
£70's a bit steep mate. Have you had a good scan about abroad for reasonable used one?

Have you tried CBfour.com? drop them an email  (info@cb-four.de) direct it to a guy called 'Hubertus Wilke'  (top name, should have been a mad professor )  I fire him all sorts of questions on parts and he has bent over backwards to help me out, he may even have the clutch holder ring youre after for your cable routing questions on the other thread as they break bikes all the time.
The service is fantastic as youd expect so theyre worth a shout mate if you haven't already.

There's a translation option top left once ypu get there

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

I'll try them thanks

[Bryanj]

Me, i would cut off the pin, drill and tap the bracket then make a new pin to lockite in to the correct diameter afterreaming theedal round.
Would be a one off special but look std and work

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Me, i would cut off the pin, drill and tap the bracket then make a new pin to lockite in to the correct diameter afterreaming theedal round.
Would be a one off special but look std and work

I like your thinking Bryan that would definitely work - on Monday I'm going to try to measure up the pivot lug & the inside of the gear change pedal tube  to identify where most of the wear is.
I know the gear change works okay with the wear as it is but I can't live with it.

Update: I've measure the hole in the gear lever shaft with my calipers so measurements are basic.

Hole measurement nearest frame (roughly horizontal) is 12.28 mm and at 90 degees rotation it's 12.33 mm - that's an ovalation of 0.05 mm. Thats about 19 thousandths of an inch.

Hole measurement at the circlip end (roughly horizontal) is 12.30 and at 90 dgrees rotation it's 12.39 mm - that's an ovalation of 0.09 mm.  That's about 35 thousandths of an inch.

Clearly much more ovalation where one might expect it where the lever is closer to the outer edge of the tube . That explains why it wobbles / moves so much.
Not done the pivot yet as I really need to take it off the frame.

[Bryanj]

I would be tempted to drill and ream the pedal boss at 1/2 inch then have a thinwall brass bush made, approx 27/64 bore

[McCabe-Thiele (Ted)]

Hi Ken, So far it looks as if the lever has taken the brunt of the wear. The two ball joints are in pretty good condition. I suspect looking at the general wear on the lever that it may have been changed for a used one due to previous damage. When I've checked the pivot for wear I might have to bite the bullet and buy the DS lever - only when I'm sure the bulk of the wear is on the lever. As the lever is in poor condition chrome wise I see little benefit in bushing a crap lever