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Honda CB750K5 Restoration by Royhall
sprinta:
Yep, if you have any problems with orders or take issue with them however small they just ban you!
royhall:
I had the tank as written off (see pictures on page 7) but decided to get it stripped just to see. Well I picked it up yesterday and was stunned. The tank is in really good condition.
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There is a small dent to the front left side that really is nothing. The odd colour around the dent and the badge bars is where it had been lead filled for the custom job. The lead is now almost fully gone except for a few drips that will sand off.
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The insides that were quite badly corroded have come out spotless, and the underside that I was expecting to see rust swollen welds is like brand new.
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The system used on the tank is a heat process that gets the metal hot enough to remove lead filling. The rust on the inside was removed using a chemical process. To be honest the whole thing has worked out really well and there really was no other way of removing lead filling. The badge bars are slightly bent but nothing that cant be straightened out. There doesn't appear to be anything like pinholes int the tank but I am going to line it as a precaution before I get it painted. The process cost £65 inc vat, a lot cheaper than a new tank.
royhall:
Progress has been a little slow for the past two weeks as those old bones of mine cant stand the cold weather anymore. ;D I have managed to finish stripping the bike and have got the engine onto the bench and onto one of Triggers finest engine stands. Eight years ago when I did my 750F2 I managed to get the engine onto the same bench myself by setting up a beer crate and workmate as steps then rolled it onto the bench. I couldn't even get it off the floor now so that became a two man job. Isn't getting old fun.
The frame appears to be in good condition with just a bit of surface rust so no worries there. I have removed the old bearing cups as I am going to fit taper rollers as I have done with all my bikes. In the picture below you can see what looks like a spacer on the bottom bearing, does this need to be removed to fit the taper roller.
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The bike was supplied without keys unfortunately but I have managed to get a pair from DSS for just a few pounds. The steering lock and the ignition are the same but unfortunately the seat lock has been replaced at some point so is a different key. Is there anywhere that can supply a seat lock to a key number as I would like it all to operate with the one key.
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I'm just at that point in the job where the bits can be overwhelming, and in such a small cluttered space it is a big issue. Mrs H was stunned last night when I said I wanted to go to the garden centre (I hate the place), but they do sell a range of keenly priced plastic storage boxes. I guess I will still have to stare at some Geraniums though.
I have resisted stripping the engine until all the other parts are sorted and away for painting/plating etc. The only thing I will take off the engine for now are the alloy parts so that I can get them away for polishing as it seams to take ages for them to return. Before the polishing can go I still need to strip the forks and the wheels. The wheels wont get stripped until I get the wheel bearings out as it's far easier to hold the wheel with the tyres still on.
Some good news is that the spare K5 engine has arrived (thanks James) and the crank cases look to be in good condition. The only downside is that the engine takes up even more scarce space and I also now have to strip two engines instead of one. On the plus side if anything in mine is suspect I have a spare.
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royhall:
The electrics have not fared well with the passing years. It looks like the bike may have been stored in a damp shed with bright sunlight through a window as the plugs look just like UVA damage to the plastic. I don't think there's barely a wire or electrical component that's reusable. I have already bought a replacement main harness and I have a combined solid state regulator/rectifier that I bought for my F2 years ago and didn't use. I am assuming that will fit a K5 but haven't even remotely looked at that yet. Looks like I will have to buy any sub harness's that are available and make what isn't available myself.
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There's a device on the electrics that I have no idea what it is, it's a little blue box that says "Safety Unit Starting Motor" on it. What does that do?
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Bryanj:
That box will not let the starter work unless EITHER the neutral light is on OR the clutch lever pulled in.
Some later Hondas had just a diode
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