SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB750

750 K2 Strip & Rebuild - help please

<< < (34/53) > >>

Oddjob:
No 6 was chromed IIRC. All of them will rust but some are internal and so are protected to some degree. Axle nut will rust on the outside edges, the spacers will especially where the seal doesn't rub as the rubbing keeps the rust at bay. I had most of mine hard chromed, they grind them back to standard spec in most cases and they tend not to rust after as the chromes so hard. The speedo drive I'd plate, makes no difference in that case, the speedo drive plate you could try rechroming or BZP it.

K2-K6:

--- Quote from: Lobo on July 06, 2022, 12:03:05 PM ---Thanks Johnny; did try this on another nipple problem using waxed sail thread… it basically cut through said nipple.  I may try it all again, but with a thicker / gentler cord.

(1) Today unlaced the hubs for polishing. When rebuild time comes back any comments on greases / anti seize lube etc to go onto the (SS) nipples where they sit in the chrome rim?

(2) the (front) disc mounting plate is to be repainted black. Should it be gloss, satin.. or matt pls?

(3) since I’ve got the disc in my hand, any ideas how to de-glaze it? Been through past threads here but not found much other than to buy a new disc.

Ta.

--- End quote ---

1/ a consideration regarding spoke breaking from a few post back. Make sure that the hub flange casting doesn't interfere with the internal spoke radius of those outside set of spokes to bring a high stress alignment with the new spokes. Carefully checking that they should be slightly "bellmouthed" to avoid pulling the spoke angle tight over a sharper radius than the spoke will help to distribute load along the spoke. Hope that makes some sense  :)

3/ disc deglaze, if you mean surface for brake performance rather than refinished surface to get level from irregularity? Then just using sintered pads is fine as it'll have no problems. Just clean with isopropyl alcohol before use or acetone/brake cleaner proprietary spray.

Lobo:
Thanks Ken / Nige, and yep, all makes perfect sense.

The wheel bits, barring # 6 above, were all zinc plated it seems…. as a check I pre-dipped them in a stripping solution and over 15 mins the zinc fizzled away. Don’t know if it was the original coating, but they were indeed a bit tired looking, prior of course, to all of this. (The polishing pic above gives a false impression!)

Anyways, all Cobalt-Nickel plated now, and whilst not perfect will hopefully provide a better protection than their failing previous coatings. Fingers crossed…

(btw: hub in the early stages of polishing - not coated in any way)

Lobo:
Painting the support plate to the front disc…. today’s tech question is, “How hot might the disc typically get on your average gentle run?” I ask because I have a SATIN BLACK VHT paint in the cupboard, whose quoted max temp is 140 C.
Am happy to take recommendations on any particular paint of course.
Ta.

K2-K6:
With a "licked finger in the air"  calculation, that appears ok to me. The centre generally stays much cooler than brake surface in use even at fairly extreme elevations of rotor temperature. 

When you see brake discs at very high temperature, indacated by blue colour, it rarely extends much into the centre structure even on single material disc and with much less transfer on composite aluminium/steel type.  Also probably significantly above your intended use range too.

Maybe someone has some real numbers that would give more accurate experience to contribute.

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page