SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB750
750 K2 Strip & Rebuild - help please
Lobo:
Thanks Nige - I’ll go ahead at that. I regularly use an IR thermometer for various things (eg plating bath, painted parts in the oven…); and first ride out, purely out of interest I’ll, check the disc temp.
Lobo:
Wheels now done - the whole bike now fully reconditioned / painted / polished …and awaiting rebuild.
Begrudgingly I bought a wheel balancing / lacing frame last week (£120 thereabouts); the decision eased by knowing the MG Griso’s tubeless / spoked wheels (using o rings) will likely need replacing in the next few years.
TBH am pleased to have it. SO much easier / better / quicker than the wooden jig I DIY’d on the last occasion…
Anyone interested, the main tips I would suggest are (applic to CB 750)
TAKE A PIC < dismantling the old wheel.
(1) if you can justify a jig; go for one that will accept the rim + tyre dia; as adjustments / balancing then become possible down the track.
(2) Lace & true the wheel (initially) using the (20) A spokes only - ie those threaded from the outside towards inside of the hub. Fill all the alternate hub holes with those A spokes (ie both sides of the hub) and then lay it flat.
(3) Sweep all lower spokes in one rotational direction, and all upper spoke in the opposite direction…. iaw with the photo you hopefully took.
(4) Lay the rim over the hub & spokes, raising it appropriately so that it’s centreline aligns with the hub’s, and lace the spokes in turn (upper / lower / upper etc) working around the wheel. (iaw your pic.)
(5) Mount the wheel in the jig, and true it for wibble and wobble (whatever the terms are)
(6) Now thread in the B spokes (it’ll be easy / obvious) and nip the nipples finger tight. (mine needed to be sprung in occasionally)
(7) Tighten B spokes (opposingly) to get a nice ping / pong sound.
(8) Check & adjust the wheel again for final trueness.
Well… it worked for me. Rebuilt / trued the second wheel in about 90 mins, inc the odd bit of help from the 2yo grandson…
Lobo:
Anyone finding issues with the YAMIYA Starter motor cover plate? Fitted a new one today, and left with a significant gap, particularly the leading edge. To be fair, refitted the old one and it too doesn’t ‘sit’ on its circumference, but rather rocks about the 2 starter motor top mounts, and still with a gap. Any yup, I’ve the new packing washer in @ 3mm thick or so… noting though that a 5mm one would solve the problem, but be visible due its height.
So.. is it a pattern part problem with the cover, or the motor….. or am I missing something?
Ta
Nurse Julie:
Have you fitted the rubber gasket under it Simon?
I've just looked at all our 750's and the cover all fit flush with no gaps, all have original covers fitted though. It almost looks like your starter motor is sitting a bit proud but that could be the angle of the photo.
Lobo:
Hi Julie. Yea, I thought that too (starter motor proud), but as far as I can ascertain there’s no other way of installing it. (& thanks for thanking the time to check)
Yep, a silicon gasket is in place; about 3mm thick… a 5mm piece would solve the issue, though would leave the chrome cover visibly raised.
All a bit confusing… unless it simply boils down to pattern parts?
Edit… I’ve had an idea, & tomorrow will swap the lid over with the Sandcast…
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