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750 K2 Strip & Rebuild - help please
Oddjob:
If the top yoke clamp bolts are 8mm then it's supposed to have D washers and yes they'd not rattle.
The pinch bolts are also supposed to be fitted so the nut is at the lowest point, so back of the yoke, this is so if the nut ever came undone only the nut and spring washer would fall off, if fitted the other way the entire bolt would slide out. Added bonus to doing it this way is that IF the bolt ever slid out it would almost certainly hit the tank, that would most likely dent or at least ding the paintwork due to the weight of the bolt, you may get away with the nut hitting the tank.
Lobo:
Cheers Ken, interesting and sensible…
Wherever possible, I’m trying to be totally accurate with the rebuild, and what you write is in confliction with my Honda Parts diagram - which shows the bolt inserted from the rear!
Was it a later Bulletin perhaps? Regardless, I may well take your advice on this one; tbh I’ve been slipping in the odd extra washer as can’t bear the thought of raw spring washers against the new & pristine powder coated frame.
(…just had a thought: if a stanchion pinch nut disappears whilst riding I’ll have far bigger problems than a scratched tank to be worrying about 😂)
Oddjob:
That's true. However by putting the nut and spring washer at the bottom it's also visible to you as you ride. So if it was coming lose you'd have at least a chance of spotting it. Other way round and they are slightly hidden and thus first thing you may notice is the bolt missing entirely. The bottom pinch bolt would hold the leg I'd imagine until you got round to fitting a new bolt. Trouble is those bolts are chromed so they tend to be special order etc and not cheap.
If the bolt was the later 7mm bolt there are no D washers fitted to those but a K2 would have the 8mm ones as standard IIRC.
Parts book is fine for seeing correct parts but not for orientation IMO.
K2-K6:
I can see the logic of fitment opposite to manual but have always done it as illustrated by Honda, never had one come undone on any bike though.
The arrangement they've got may (you'd need to check bore size etc) be such that the placement of the bolt head and restricted by the D washer keeps the alignment of the bolt coming through the front of the casting. That could be to prevent the bolt shaft pulling inward toward the stanchion and maintaining a flat pull on the front of the casting. The front hole can then be "floating" without binding to give more than desired bend to casting, in other words trying to keep both bolt head and nut faces planar to each other.
K2-K6:
Similar to front spindle clamp orientation.
The lower triple clamp is also steel and much less vulnerable to excess bolt load than the top aluminium casting, which takes most of the chassis load on it's own.
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