SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB750

750 K2 Strip & Rebuild - help please

<< < (42/53) > >>

K2-K6:

--- Quote from: Oddjob on July 27, 2022, 11:22:41 AM ---You may be vastly overstating this,
--- End quote ---

You're probably right Ken, but while the world and his dog concern themselves with, variously, meltdown, invasion, no gas supplies, rail strikes etc etc and all other frivolous malarkey,  we can come to the relative peaceful and far more serious subject of discussion as to how the nuts and bolts really should be arranged  ;D

Also via an intercontinental motorcycle forum no less, I'm sure we'll be able to sort it out.   :)

Nurse Julie:
Here is one of our 750/4's
Have you got a Unicorn top yoke fitted Simon?

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

Lobo:
Thanks Julie, unsure what a Unicorn yoke is, but afaik mine is just plain old 1973 Honda. Appreciate the photo. Nothing has changed wrt this area (other than fresh powder coat) and I can’t bloody remember how the D washers were at tear-down.

The stanchions are DSS patterns …. gave Trig the old ‘ uns. (restoring the UK based bike from my work place in Brunei was a problem back then!)

Q1. Wrt the mostly cleaned away paint, should the stanchions be a fairly tight slide in, or easy insertion? Mine are tight, needing a fair amount of pushing and twisting.
Q2 - do you preferably torque them, or use the D washers as an indication of final clamping?

I might be wasting everyone’s time here as not yet put a torque wrench on them, which will happen in a couple of weeks now. Regardless, a big thanks.

Lobo:
Back from my hols and checked the torque on those 7mm / D washer top yolk today.. were bang on at 8ft lbs. Ie the washers still rattle.
It got me thinking deeper - surely if these washers tighten up you can’t be certain that the stanchion is fully clamped? Are they not provided as a simple yolk-crack saving device?
I’ve cleaned away 80% of the powder coat (more or less bare metal showing) and honestly don’t want to go more. Those washers have about 0.2mm rattle slack - it’ll do me… unless I’m missing something critical here.

Wrt to the rear shocks, they are fully checked, cleaned and as good as new. I never was able to compress the springs enough to access the lock-nut to upper mount, mainly because 50% of said spring is inaccessible under the chrome skirt. 3 stout tie-wraps over 1/2 the spring afforded me just enough to do the job.
With the twin top collars removed I noted the upper mount was about 0.5mm too large to pull through the upper holes in the chrome skirts - at 4 circumferential points - and so ground away a minuscule 0.25 mm notch at each point with the Dremel. (I wish I’d tried heat… the interference was so minimal it might have worked?) The top mount  then pulled though and gave me access to the lock nut / disassembly.

A horrible job due my puny muscles compressing the unit against my  flabby gut - glad it’s bloody done.

Lobo:
Slow progress… too many distractions.

Anyways, when I dismantled the bike the cylinder head breather was to atmosphere. Now I note the parts manual (part # 11 uppermost) shows a clip on each end of this… so where does it connect to pls?
 
I’m pretty certain the oil tank breather connects to the (lower) crankcase vent, ie that hole’s accounted for 😂.

Ta.

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page