SOHC.co.uk Forums > CB750
750 K2 Strip & Rebuild - help please
Lobo:
Slight change of topic here, but with the bike totally stripped it might be time to swap the front brake from DOT 3 to Silicon fluid. If I plan to keep the existing master, hoses, caliper etc can someone pls advise me which is the best cleaning fluid to use on these components.
(Braced for…. ‘Brake cleaner’! 😂)
Trigger:
I changed all my bikes to oke dot 5 silicon. You have to strip the M/C and the caliper completely and clean out with clutch and brake cleaner. It is only a hours work ;)
It is the worst thing to do is soak a crank in anything, this will just loosen the crap and you not be sure if you have it all out. Do the job once and do it right :o
Lobo:
Cheers Trig, wildo.
Next cleaning job are the clutch plates which @ 3.5mm thickness are good. Plan to immerse them in petrol overnight followed by same in a strong non-corrosive degreaser - will this be inviting trouble?
Ta.
Trigger:
--- Quote from: Lobo on March 29, 2022, 08:01:51 AM ---Cheers Trig, wildo.
Next cleaning job are the clutch plates which @ 3.5mm thickness are good. Plan to immerse them in petrol overnight followed by same in a strong non-corrosive degreaser - will this be inviting trouble?
Ta.
--- End quote ---
NOT petrol, it will loosen the fibers off the plate. Used Clutch and Brake cleaner ;)
K2-K6:
--- Quote from: Lobo on March 28, 2022, 10:47:02 PM ---Surely the problem Ken, is that you’re unable to directly point any spray at the column of sludge given the geography of the holes. So (useful) mechanical degreasing / washing out is off the cards. Next issue is the 6(?) mm column, 1†high (?) of compacted ‘plastercine’ - how are you ever going to know it’s all dissolved?
Could ultrasonics be used? - though I guess the mass of the crankshaft would negate that?
The (grinding) method of removing the balls Ash put out on his link would be easy enough for most DIYers - given they had enough nous to get the CS out in the first place?
--- End quote ---
Important I feel to make the distinction here about how the "sludge" gets there. It's not travelling in the oil as sludge (it would be trapped by the filter if that was the case and prior to delivery) it's symptomatic of the oil used passing over temperature threshold at that specific site/location that causes it to bake out the components that stick to the metal. Think more of baked on oil in a domestic oven.
It can only do this by becoming stationary (or close to it) at a site that's above the critical temperature, and one of the important limitations of this oil type. Most likely when crank is stationary after running that has internal structure at elevated temperature, along with the oil sitting there. Essentially you can't cure it with this oil, the risk will always be there. Other less heat intensive sites have an absence of this effect.
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